I currently only have one female betta, but I'd like to get her a bigger tank and possibly another female betta tank-mate :) Would a 5-gallon tank be suitable? I realize that isn't very big, but I don't have much room right now and plus I'm not very experienced with fish tanks. I know I would need some kind of tank with a cover since I have a cat. Does anyone have any suggestions of what kind of filter/heater to get? I'm not sure which brands are best. I'd also like to maybe get a few live plants, but I don't know what kind would work with the bettas. Any advice would be helpful :)New set-up for 1 or 2 female bettas...Need advice :)?
Two females will squable, but they will NOT fight each other as the males do. There are many many many female betta sorority tanks that are funtional. I would concider getting a 10 gallon if you plan on adding anymore females. But with a 5 gallon as long as you have MANY plants and hiding spots, diftwood and caves work very well.
I would suggest getting more then just two females, 4+ is a good number concidering females can become dominant of territory if it is just the two of them.
Also check out the tank calculator for future addings. http://www.drhelm.com/aquarium/areajava.鈥?/a>
Filter: A Whisper 5-15 would work ok, if you're worried about current, (which in some bettas can cause stress and lead to the dreaded tail biting) Check out this
section in a forum I go to. http://www.ultimatebettas.com/index.php?鈥?/a>
Heater: Hydor Mini-Heater is a decent choice. 78-80* is a good range for the temp.
As for the peope above, please PLEASE do NOT keep your bettas in ';jars';!!!! It is CRUEL CONFINMENT! The MINIMUM size one betta, male or female, should be in is 1 gallon. Stop cruel confinment of jars, bowls and vases!New set-up for 1 or 2 female bettas...Need advice :)?
I got an aqua- tech 5/15 power filter at walmart for my 5 gallon betta tank that I really like.
Female Betas generally will not fight so you can get another or even a 3rd in a 5 gallon tank. Perhaps even a catfish for the bottom. But no more.
For just the Betas and the 1 catfish you probably don't need a heater if you keep the tank in your normally heated house at about 70F. Don't use the basement b/c the tank will cool down further.
A very small power filter (internal submersible or external hanging filter) that cycles about 20-30 gal an hour is more than enough. A small sponge filter powered by an air pump is also a reasonable option.
I would not consider this a large enough tank for live plants but I would consider low-light plants like java moss, fern, banana plants.
Your tank would be great and any of the smallest power filters would be ok (I like whisper but anything similar is ok). One plant that is easy to work with is called Hornwort. you can anchor it or let it float and it magically keeps down algae if it has enough light. Good Luck!
two female bettas WILL fight.
female bettas aren't as hyper aggressive as males, but they are still aggressive, in varying degrees.
keeping multiple females has been tried and tested many times, and the best formula is to have 5 or more in a tank no smaller than 10 US gallons, well planted with lots of hiding places.
female bettas are not schooling fish, they will develop their own little territories and a strict pecking order. if you keep only two, you may find that one will be more dominant, bullying the other to death. three you would find two bullying one, four you would be pushing your luck, with a number of 5 or more that aggression is spread about and peace should be restored, well relative peace, until you find you have a hyper-aggressive female (they exist!) that is best kept alone like a male. or even a male plakat in disguise (short-tailed male betta).
with regards to tanks, visit your local large chain petstore, they'll do good deals on tank packages that include heaters, filters etc. remember you need to cycle the tank before any fish go in, check the link below. with live plants, stick to low-light types such as java fern or java moss, other plants will need more light than a regular set up provides, or even CO2 pumped into the tank too.
You can keep multiple bettas, but I would suggest getting two instead of one. Even females will be aggressive, but not to the point of males. The females will establish a pecking order among themselves and once the order is established, everything is usually fine. I suggest two, because this will spread out the aggression from your current female so she doesn't just pick on one fish all the time. It would be good to have multiple hiding places in the tank for them as well, so your plants would be a good idea.
The choice of plants would really depend on the lighting more than any preference by your betta. The intensity of the lighting will determine whether a plant will grow or not. Anubias (banana plant), Java fern, and Crypts are all low-light plants, so these would be good choices.
There are several brands of 5 gallon bowfront acrylic tanks on the market, most come with brightly colored trim, a hood with a light, a filter, water conditioner, and trial sized flake food for about $35 - $50 US: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.d鈥?/a>
You can get a color to show off your bettas and find a matching color of gravel as well. As far as a heater, I'd recommend against the cheapest you can buy. I like ones that are completely submersible and can have the tempetature adjusted. There are several companies that make this size, and you'd only need one that's 25 watts for a 5 gallon tank. I'd also consider upgrading your light to a full-spectrum bulb. The color is more natural and it would benefit your plants, but may also benefit algae!
A five gallon tank is plenty for a couple female betas. I would recomend a larger tank just for the ease of maintenece, larger tanks tend to be more stable.
As far as the issue of female bettas fighting, I've had 20 at a time in a 20 gallon tank and never saw any agresive behavior.
when your female bettas is use to being in its own tank. if you put in another female into her tank she will fight/ bite the new female. i keep all of my female in their own jars. it's easier to fat them up for breeding.
I work in a petstore and we sell bettas male and female. we house the males seperately but the females are fine to go in together. Bettas are known for being able to live in horse shoe imprint of water so they're not entirely fussy fish. whatever you house them in they just need to have fresh water and regular water changes and conditioner added to keep the ph at the right level etc. they do not need any fancy filters or heaters but they can only benefit from these. it is entirely up to you but remember that most people keep bettas in little tiny jars or tanks, so yours are getting five star treatment!!
A 1-gallon tank would be just fine. Some live plants and very light filtration .A small heater or light bulb for warmth.
You could also add one male;males are beautiful.
I would suggest a 10-gallon aquarium instead. As for the number of females, I would also suggest a quantity of three. This would stop any possible bullying between the females. I owned two at one time and one female killed the other dispite having a 10-gallon tank. Go to your local Wal-Mart to purchase a starter 10-gallon aquarium kit. I would suggest an undergravel filter than a standard type overhang filter and the heater has to at least be a 25-watt. I would suggest a java fern for the betta's enviroment.
yES a 5 gallon will be big enough for 2 females I have a 2.77 gal. with a crontail female Betta and a platy with one eye missing and they get along great.
A$H!
From personal experience.......Don't put two Betta's together. Betta fish are very aggressive and will fight to the death over space and food. It doesn't matter if they are the same sex or opposite sex, they still fight. A five gallon tank is perfect. They stay pretty small in size. They don't need a heater!!!!! You can buy a 5 gallon tank at Walmart that has everything you need to start. Including the filter!! The tank and accessories are inexpensive and easy to do. Also, you'll only want to use bottled water. The tap water has chemicals that are known to be fatal to fish. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
If you put 2 bettas together they will kill each other, heater depands on what type of fish you will have, someone the water temp will stay normal without heater. research your fish online, or got into the pet store and browse through books.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
New Zealand payment rounding legal advice please?
I am self employed, but receive works orders from a company I do piece work for. The works orders state dollar and cents amounts to 3 decimal places, and my invoicing rounds up to 2 decimal places, but they pay based on the first 2 decimal places, regardless of rounding. Now for the sake of accuracy, should they be correctly rounding to 2 decimal places, or is it OK for them to just read the first 2 decimal places and ignore the rest?
Example:
288 units at $0.286 each I calculated as $82.368, rounded up to $82.37
They pay $82.36 as they just read the first 2 decimal places and ignore rounding.
What concerns me is that my invoices automatically round up, so what they are paying me does not match my invoicing. Even if I adjust my invoices to show 3 decimal places, the rounding they fail to do would make the payment inaccurate. I know it's only a few cents, but over a few years this would add up, and I am concerned that it would look odd when I do my tax return at the end of the year.New Zealand payment rounding legal advice please?
Not sure, if you contact a NZ accountant or the NZ Retailers Association maybe (but an accountant will charge you for the info) or just google search on google.co.nz - like I did as per below:
Information for businessesHow will rounding work? The New Zealand Retailers Association has suggested to its members that when the total transaction value ends in x cents and payment ...
www.newcoins.govt.nz/2451669.html - 7k - Cached - Similar pages - Note this
How does rounding work? - GrownUps New ZealandHow will rounding work? The New Zealand Retailers Association has recommended ... value ends in x cents and payment is by cash then the following rounding ...
www.grownups.co.nz/read/money/savings-鈥?-
You could also google our Commerce Commission %26amp; they should be able to help or put you onto the right person/Government Department. Or even our Ministry of Foreign Affairs %26amp; Trade.
Example:
288 units at $0.286 each I calculated as $82.368, rounded up to $82.37
They pay $82.36 as they just read the first 2 decimal places and ignore rounding.
What concerns me is that my invoices automatically round up, so what they are paying me does not match my invoicing. Even if I adjust my invoices to show 3 decimal places, the rounding they fail to do would make the payment inaccurate. I know it's only a few cents, but over a few years this would add up, and I am concerned that it would look odd when I do my tax return at the end of the year.New Zealand payment rounding legal advice please?
Not sure, if you contact a NZ accountant or the NZ Retailers Association maybe (but an accountant will charge you for the info) or just google search on google.co.nz - like I did as per below:
Information for businessesHow will rounding work? The New Zealand Retailers Association has suggested to its members that when the total transaction value ends in x cents and payment ...
www.newcoins.govt.nz/2451669.html - 7k - Cached - Similar pages - Note this
How does rounding work? - GrownUps New ZealandHow will rounding work? The New Zealand Retailers Association has recommended ... value ends in x cents and payment is by cash then the following rounding ...
www.grownups.co.nz/read/money/savings-鈥?-
You could also google our Commerce Commission %26amp; they should be able to help or put you onto the right person/Government Department. Or even our Ministry of Foreign Affairs %26amp; Trade.
Haircut Advice!!!NEED HELP!!!needs brand new in style bac 2 skool HAIRCUT!!!<333(PICS)
k i really need a new haircut so ive created this group of pictures with a bunch of hair cuts that i really like, so pick your favorites and tell me but if you know of any better cuts 4 me just tell me!! thanx!!
heres the collage of hairstyles...
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii274鈥?/a>
and heres a pic of me to help...
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii274鈥?/a>
%26lt;3
Haircut Advice!!!NEED HELP!!!needs brand new in style bac 2 skool HAIRCUT!!!%26lt;333(PICS)
i say get more layers cut ur bangs shorter and put hightlights in ur hair
=) pretty pretty girlie!Haircut Advice!!!NEED HELP!!!needs brand new in style bac 2 skool HAIRCUT!!!%26lt;333(PICS)
For you i think you would look pretty in Lauren Conrad or Nicole Richie hair :)
i love there hair so much :)
GOOD LUCK with everything!
ok well i like the one zoey is wearing that one would look nice on u so well like if u do get blond highlights
get that one of alexis bledel
i like the nicole richie one for you
get ur hair done like jamie lyn spears it would be super cute
heres the collage of hairstyles...
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii274鈥?/a>
and heres a pic of me to help...
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii274鈥?/a>
%26lt;3
Haircut Advice!!!NEED HELP!!!needs brand new in style bac 2 skool HAIRCUT!!!%26lt;333(PICS)
i say get more layers cut ur bangs shorter and put hightlights in ur hair
=) pretty pretty girlie!Haircut Advice!!!NEED HELP!!!needs brand new in style bac 2 skool HAIRCUT!!!%26lt;333(PICS)
For you i think you would look pretty in Lauren Conrad or Nicole Richie hair :)
i love there hair so much :)
GOOD LUCK with everything!
ok well i like the one zoey is wearing that one would look nice on u so well like if u do get blond highlights
get that one of alexis bledel
i like the nicole richie one for you
get ur hair done like jamie lyn spears it would be super cute
New eyebrow piercing, still bleeding, advice please?
I got my eyebrow pierced yesterday.
When it was pierced, blood was dripping down my face. She had to apply pressure to it for a couple minutes.
Durning the night, I was laying with the piercing to the pillow (Not smart, I know that now!) and I guess it got moved around a little bit, because I woke up with dried blood all around the piercing.
Today it was fine, but if I move my eyebrow even the slightest bit, it drips blood again. I just stopped it. I gently washed away the blood and cleaned the piercing with warm salt water.
What else should I do? I really dont want it to migrate or completely be rejected, I really like it! (Even tho theres some bruising so far.) (And its a barbell, btw.)
What if I put some vasoline on there to stop the bleeding and heal it up a bit?
Any other advice is appreciated!
Thanx!New eyebrow piercing, still bleeding, advice please?
Is it being rejected? Cause it could just be bleeding...nomally I guess you could say. Clean it as usual but if the persist you might want to take it out and get it re done. Sorry but that's all I can thing of now. You could try putting some H2Ocean on it, it's supposed to help heal faster. Or use some Bactine if it really hurts.New eyebrow piercing, still bleeding, advice please?
idk try it!origins
When it was pierced, blood was dripping down my face. She had to apply pressure to it for a couple minutes.
Durning the night, I was laying with the piercing to the pillow (Not smart, I know that now!) and I guess it got moved around a little bit, because I woke up with dried blood all around the piercing.
Today it was fine, but if I move my eyebrow even the slightest bit, it drips blood again. I just stopped it. I gently washed away the blood and cleaned the piercing with warm salt water.
What else should I do? I really dont want it to migrate or completely be rejected, I really like it! (Even tho theres some bruising so far.) (And its a barbell, btw.)
What if I put some vasoline on there to stop the bleeding and heal it up a bit?
Any other advice is appreciated!
Thanx!New eyebrow piercing, still bleeding, advice please?
Is it being rejected? Cause it could just be bleeding...nomally I guess you could say. Clean it as usual but if the persist you might want to take it out and get it re done. Sorry but that's all I can thing of now. You could try putting some H2Ocean on it, it's supposed to help heal faster. Or use some Bactine if it really hurts.New eyebrow piercing, still bleeding, advice please?
idk try it!
New girl at work. Any advice?
Scenario: Waitress for many years at one spot. Quit because I could see business was going downhill. Got a new job at a bigger, better place. Still in same area (all business owners must know each other) Been there 2 weeks and one girl (pregnant) getting on me telling me I should quit.
I think it's because I'm making more than her, she's the drama queen, and she can't stand the fact that I know what I'm doing after 2 weeks in. I have no problem with anyone else. (there must be 30 employees)
She said to me tonight, ';if you can't do your job, then maybe you should quit.'; ';And this customer is pissed'; I went back to that customer and they Weren't pissed.
Ugh.
Should I just ignore her and wait till she goes on maternity leave?
Personally, I don't think she should be waitressing at this stage.New girl at work. Any advice?
It might be that she is worried you will outshine her in job performance while out on maternity leave. She may feel things will not be the same upon her return.
Whatever her fears may be, you are a threat. Her feelings can be analyzed to death, but the fact is you were hired to do a job, generate profits for the owners, and not add to any employee soap opera drama. If you work with honor and dignity, you will have to let the chips fall where they may in all good conscience.
.New girl at work. Any advice?
I'd let my boss know, in a professional manner, about her comments and rudeness. Don't talk about her, or anything like that. Make her out to be the bad one and make sure you have nothing coming back on you. Tell you boss that she's almost impossible to work with and jepordizes your relationships with your customers.
Oh I absolutely HATE people like that! Yeah, she's most definitely jealous, and don't let it get to you, or at least.. don't let her know that it's getting to you. Just hold your head up high and wait it out until she gets to go and birth her rotten spawn.
POINT BLANK....
Don't let someone else interfere with you handling your business. If she's hating, let her hate. She's probably just intimidated. Kill her with kindness.
If she's not the boss why are you even listening to her since you claim to know what you're doing? Maybe you should just quit then!
No way should you quit. It sounds like there's no reason for you to be intimidated by her. Ignore her and do your job the best that you can!
Ah, right, she isn't the boss, just has more senority then you do. Well, bow your head and knuckle down under it to do your work, make a point to be better at it then anyone. You should not have the attitude of what she should be doing or not doing. You should be concerned only with what you should or should not be doing. (Besides has she said she was pregnant or are you just assuming she is?)
Like I said, knuckle down and be humble when you go to work, at work, and from work. You can always take your frustration out in your own way, when you are home. Try it for 2 weeks and the customers will notice as will the other employees and they will get on her case. People do already notice what she is doing. Every thing you do or don't do is seen by a lot of people. And remember to be polite to her and the other people. Hey, it could be she did like your perfume to a misunderstanding years ago she has never forgiven... Just do it and smile.
AoA
Ok, for sure she is not in her place when she is saying those comments to you. But you have to take in consideration that she is pregnant, and we all know that during pregnancy, a lady can get very moody! Just ignore her, I think thats the best thing you can do. Don't react to her comments because it will only make things worse. You know what you are doing is right, so why bother with a pregnant woman. And anyways, like you said, she will be going on maternity leave, so just do your thing girl, no matter whats goin on around you.
I think it's because I'm making more than her, she's the drama queen, and she can't stand the fact that I know what I'm doing after 2 weeks in. I have no problem with anyone else. (there must be 30 employees)
She said to me tonight, ';if you can't do your job, then maybe you should quit.'; ';And this customer is pissed'; I went back to that customer and they Weren't pissed.
Ugh.
Should I just ignore her and wait till she goes on maternity leave?
Personally, I don't think she should be waitressing at this stage.New girl at work. Any advice?
It might be that she is worried you will outshine her in job performance while out on maternity leave. She may feel things will not be the same upon her return.
Whatever her fears may be, you are a threat. Her feelings can be analyzed to death, but the fact is you were hired to do a job, generate profits for the owners, and not add to any employee soap opera drama. If you work with honor and dignity, you will have to let the chips fall where they may in all good conscience.
.New girl at work. Any advice?
I'd let my boss know, in a professional manner, about her comments and rudeness. Don't talk about her, or anything like that. Make her out to be the bad one and make sure you have nothing coming back on you. Tell you boss that she's almost impossible to work with and jepordizes your relationships with your customers.
Oh I absolutely HATE people like that! Yeah, she's most definitely jealous, and don't let it get to you, or at least.. don't let her know that it's getting to you. Just hold your head up high and wait it out until she gets to go and birth her rotten spawn.
POINT BLANK....
Don't let someone else interfere with you handling your business. If she's hating, let her hate. She's probably just intimidated. Kill her with kindness.
If she's not the boss why are you even listening to her since you claim to know what you're doing? Maybe you should just quit then!
No way should you quit. It sounds like there's no reason for you to be intimidated by her. Ignore her and do your job the best that you can!
Ah, right, she isn't the boss, just has more senority then you do. Well, bow your head and knuckle down under it to do your work, make a point to be better at it then anyone. You should not have the attitude of what she should be doing or not doing. You should be concerned only with what you should or should not be doing. (Besides has she said she was pregnant or are you just assuming she is?)
Like I said, knuckle down and be humble when you go to work, at work, and from work. You can always take your frustration out in your own way, when you are home. Try it for 2 weeks and the customers will notice as will the other employees and they will get on her case. People do already notice what she is doing. Every thing you do or don't do is seen by a lot of people. And remember to be polite to her and the other people. Hey, it could be she did like your perfume to a misunderstanding years ago she has never forgiven... Just do it and smile.
AoA
Ok, for sure she is not in her place when she is saying those comments to you. But you have to take in consideration that she is pregnant, and we all know that during pregnancy, a lady can get very moody! Just ignore her, I think thats the best thing you can do. Don't react to her comments because it will only make things worse. You know what you are doing is right, so why bother with a pregnant woman. And anyways, like you said, she will be going on maternity leave, so just do your thing girl, no matter whats goin on around you.
New 2 You Tube any advice?
How do I submit my movie? How do I submit other material (like a news item or entertainment clip)? How do I resize my video once I've uploaded it to my PC? Please understand that this is my next venture outside of e-mail and i-tunes. I'm still green to the computer world. Thanks for any help you can provide!New 2 You Tube any advice?
1) You'll need to register for an account (http://www.youtube.com/signup).
2) After you've signed up, you can go to your account management area, called, ';My Account.'; http://www.youtube.com/my_account.
3) From there you, can upload videos / clips from the ';Manage My Videos'; area.
Please note that it does take some time to upload a video depending on the speed of your connection. Once you've uploaded a video it will show in the ';Manage My Videos'; area.New 2 You Tube any advice?
caziertm has given you the basics. I would recommend you consider who your audience is and how you intend to reach them.
Will you use editing software (Adobe Premiere, Sony Vegas, AVID, etc.)
Don't post video you might regret later. Good luck!
1) You'll need to register for an account (http://www.youtube.com/signup).
2) After you've signed up, you can go to your account management area, called, ';My Account.'; http://www.youtube.com/my_account.
3) From there you, can upload videos / clips from the ';Manage My Videos'; area.
Please note that it does take some time to upload a video depending on the speed of your connection. Once you've uploaded a video it will show in the ';Manage My Videos'; area.New 2 You Tube any advice?
caziertm has given you the basics. I would recommend you consider who your audience is and how you intend to reach them.
Will you use editing software (Adobe Premiere, Sony Vegas, AVID, etc.)
Don't post video you might regret later. Good luck!
New to sex, need some advice please?
Me and my boyfriend lost our virginity together, so we are both new to sex. We've had sex 8 times now, but each time has only lasted about 2 minutes since he hasn't learned to control himself. The sex is good but something just doesn't seem right? Its seems like no matter what position were in we just can't seem to get him to go in all the way or something? Then also, when were ';moving'; it's not like an in and out motion it's more like a short movement where he's completely inside of me the whole time but just barely moving in and out. This doesn't seem right but it just doesn't seem to work the other way. Sorry if i'm not explaining myself well but I don't really know how to explain it. Like I said, the sex still feels good but its not amazing and something doesn't seem right. So could anyone give me any tips or advice. Maybe some positions that are good for beginners and will help us in our situation? Any advice is great thanks.New to sex, need some advice please?
You can try on top ( cow girl style) as this will allow you control. You can try dogie style . As for getting him to last longer try fore play till he shoots than have
intercourse after getting him hard again.
I love oral sex to start for both of you then you are prime and he not in a rush to shoot.New to sex, need some advice please?
well first off you both are new. he will take time to control himself or he might just be a minute man for life. if he does control himself doggy would be good but he stays inside cause if he comes out and in it will be to much for him and he will ***. you might want to try being on top so you can control the motion and amount you take in and let out. if that doesnt work then you could try numbing creme from a novelty shop to take away his sensation.
don't worry this is just normal, or atleast it's fine (everyone is differnt). but i would say that you should go on top and make sure you do have a condom on.... good idea. but he may not be ';packing '; down there so it might take a couple of more trie before you to understand the positions!!!
If he's shooting his load to early take this as a compliment and remember he's a beginner:)....But a condom would help slow him down and to get it in good make sure your wet enough or its harder to get it in all the way and being ontop can help but your best bet is to have patience with each other:)
Its always this ways for beginners. Just start with you on your back and him and top and get a good rhythm. I remember going through this... haha Start slow and try to pick up the pace once the rhythm gets better.
Still feels good either way
he probably hasnt poped ur cherry complete meaning he hasnt taken ur virginity all the way so u just sholud just try practicing to do it in and out till u feel more comfortable
get on top of him.
kiss him or something...in other words distract him so he wont think about u guys being in the middle of sex.
Practice makes perfect. Tell him to go slower and give longer strokes if that's what you like.
you should go on top, so that way you can have more control of how it goes!
try being on top
if you want him to not shoot off early try distracting him by doing something else like kissing
You can try on top ( cow girl style) as this will allow you control. You can try dogie style . As for getting him to last longer try fore play till he shoots than have
intercourse after getting him hard again.
I love oral sex to start for both of you then you are prime and he not in a rush to shoot.New to sex, need some advice please?
well first off you both are new. he will take time to control himself or he might just be a minute man for life. if he does control himself doggy would be good but he stays inside cause if he comes out and in it will be to much for him and he will ***. you might want to try being on top so you can control the motion and amount you take in and let out. if that doesnt work then you could try numbing creme from a novelty shop to take away his sensation.
don't worry this is just normal, or atleast it's fine (everyone is differnt). but i would say that you should go on top and make sure you do have a condom on.... good idea. but he may not be ';packing '; down there so it might take a couple of more trie before you to understand the positions!!!
If he's shooting his load to early take this as a compliment and remember he's a beginner:)....But a condom would help slow him down and to get it in good make sure your wet enough or its harder to get it in all the way and being ontop can help but your best bet is to have patience with each other:)
Its always this ways for beginners. Just start with you on your back and him and top and get a good rhythm. I remember going through this... haha Start slow and try to pick up the pace once the rhythm gets better.
Still feels good either way
he probably hasnt poped ur cherry complete meaning he hasnt taken ur virginity all the way so u just sholud just try practicing to do it in and out till u feel more comfortable
get on top of him.
kiss him or something...in other words distract him so he wont think about u guys being in the middle of sex.
Practice makes perfect. Tell him to go slower and give longer strokes if that's what you like.
you should go on top, so that way you can have more control of how it goes!
try being on top
if you want him to not shoot off early try distracting him by doing something else like kissing
New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
i just recently got a rabbit. hes a one year old mixed bunny. he is not for show, just for a pet. i was just looking for some advice and caring information for him. hes very sweet so i let him run around the house when im home. he has a litter box that he uses pretty well. i was just looking for additional information about rabbits in general as pets. do they need any vaccinations? or vet visits? do they clean themselves? can he eat any vegetables or do i have to get him a certain kind. also, i let him run around in my garden sometimes and ive noticed that he really likes eating flowers. is this ok? any other information is appreciated. thank you.New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
Looking after a pet rabbit is a very special responsibility. You need to provide adequate housing, a proper diet, regular grooming and veterinary check-ups, as well as give your rabbit plenty of love and attention.
Following is a look at some of the basic needs your rabbit requires for a happy and healthy life.
OUTDOOR HOUSING
Traditional rabbit hutch designs are usually too small and fail to meet a rabbit's needs - cramped cages restrict movement leading to spinal and behavioural problems, and hard or wire floors lead to foot problems and sore hocks.
An ideal hutch:
鈥? has a run with adequate room for the rabbit to stand up fully on its hind limbs and enough space to allow free movement, at the very least it should be able to take 3 successive hops
鈥? provides a sleeping area with a solid floor and sides to offer shelter, as well as somewhere to hide. The floor needs to be lined with soft, absorbent bedding such as straw, grass hay or unscented wood shavings and cleaned daily. A litter tray for toileting can be provided.
鈥? needs to be built from materials that are easy to clean and chew-proof - the hutch itself should be cleaned and scrubbed weekly
鈥? does not have wire flooring
鈥? should be well ventilated - wire mesh sides provide good light and ventilation, as well as mosquito protection
鈥? provides relief from extremes of temperature, wind and rain. The roof needs to be solid and sloped to protect from the elements and be hinged to allow ease of access for cleaning. Raise the hutch off the ground to protect from damp and place in a sheltered part of the garden with adequate sunlight (morning sun), but protected from wind and high temperatures.
鈥? includes water bottles, feeding bowl, hayrack and chew toys for environmental enrichment e.g. tree branches, wooden parrot toys, cardboard boxes and toilet roll tubes.
Confining a rabbit to a hutch for long periods is unsatisfactory, and actually harmful to the rabbit. These days more rabbits are housed, or at least allowed access to, indoors and are included more in family life.
EXERCISE
All pet rabbits should have daily exercise outside of the hutch - at least 4 hours to free roam. As well as preventing behavioural problems, exercise helps to ensure a healthy gut and prevent obesity and spinal problems.
A rabbit should never be left outside of the cage unsupervised and must be protected from predators and escape. A fenced enclosure with garden shrubbery or logs for shelter can be built around the hutch to provide safe exercise for the rabbit and access to grass, wood and bark. The fence needs to be dug in so the rabbit can't burrow under and be high enough that it can't jump out.
INDOOR HOUSING
Rabbits adapt easily to living inside and are suited to quiet households. Contrary to popular belief, they are better pets for adults than children - they are after all a prey animal and are naturally timid and wary. They do enjoy affection, however, as it helps them feel secure - make a fuss over them at ground level rather than picking them up and handling them excessively.
The house must be adequately 'rabbit-proofed' to protect them from chewing through electrical cords - either prevent access to these by placing behind furniture or cover in a hard plastic sleeving. Remove potentially poisonous plants, protect valuable furniture at ground level or prevent access to certain areas and provide a safe, allowable alternative for their chewing needs, such as chew toys, a piece of untreated, unpainted wood, cardboard boxes and piles of newspapers or old phonebooks to shred.
Provide a secure sleeping area e.g. a basket, tub or box under a table plus a cardboard box or two around the house that the rabbit can sit inside (cut out an entry plus an exit hole).
Many rabbits can be trained successfully to use a litter tray, especially for urinating, but it is not uncommon for them to leave droppings around from time to time - it is best to simply clean these up and not worry about it. Place a few droppings in the tray to try and encourage the rabbit to use the tray the next time - they are attracted to go in the same place by the smell.
COMPANIONSHIP
Rabbits are sociable animals so housing them with other rabbits is encouraged. Neutered rabbits of opposite or same sexes can be housed together. Any attempted introductions should be monitored closely as rabbits can inflict serious wounds on each other.
It is recommended not to house guinea pigs and rabbits together. Sometimes a rabbit and guinea pig can co-habit if they have been together since weaning, but in most cases the guinea pig is in danger of being kicked and injured by the rabbit. Rabbits may also carry infections that can affect guinea pigs.
FEEDING
The most common cause of gastrointestinal disease in rabbits is poor diet. The majority of commercially available rabbit foods are actually inappropriate for pet rabbits - they are too concentrated in carbohydrates and fats and lack appropriate levels of fibre, as well as don't allow for adequate dental wear and gastrointestinal movement.
Rabbits have a gastrointestinal system designed to digest large amounts of fibrous material. Wild rabbits eat grass %26amp; weeds, some flowers and other plant material, occasionally fruit and also chew on bark and branches.
Essentially rabbits should be fed a Hay and Vegetables diet:
鈥? Grass hay (meadow hay) should be available at all times. Grasses of most kinds can be offered (except for grass clippings as they often go mouldy), as well as a variety of garden weeds. Lucerne hay can be given in small amounts but not as the sole source of hay as it is too high in calcium.
鈥? A range of vegetables can be offered, especially leafy green vegetables such as spinach, bock Choy, cauliflower leaves, cabbage and Brussels sprout leaves. Celery, pea pods, herbs, broccoli, spring onions, sprouts, lettuce mixes, radish and carrot tops are also suitable. Carrots can be suspended from the cage to keep them occupied and increase time spent eating. Avoid raw beans, corn, rhubarb, and potato peels. Give about 250g/kg bodyweight per day of at least 3 different varieties.
鈥? Fruits can be offered occasionally as a treat e.g. apples, pears, oranges and strawberries. Give no more than 1-2 tablespoons per rabbit per day.
鈥? Feed limited quantities of pellets (no more than 3% of the rabbit's body weight) and avoid rabbit mixes altogether (selective feeding of items in the mix can lead to dietary deficiencies).
鈥? Twigs and branches from trees are good for rabbits to chew on.
鈥? No salt licks or supplements are required.
Fresh water needs to be provided 24 hours a day in a bowl that can鈥檛 be tipped over. Water bottles can be purchased that hang on the side of the cage. Rabbits are very prone to heat stress (temperatures above 28掳C) - keep them inside or in the shade and provide frozen water bottles to cuddle up to on hot days (rabbits can't sweat).
GROOMING
Apart from enjoying a good brush, grooming your rabbit regularly is important to its health and well being. Long-haired breeds require daily brushing to remove excess dead hair and prevent hairballs developing. Rabbits cannot vomit and hairballs are prone to cause intestinal obstructions. Daily grooming also allows for early detection of problems, and regular handling helps develop your rabbit's confidence and friendliness.
Periodic nail trimming is required to prevent harm to you and your family, as well as to other pets. Rabbits have sharp nails and can easily scratch when they kick out their back feet, often quite forcefully. Use nail trimmers designed for pets and clip the sharp tip of the nail so you aren't in danger of cutting too far down past the 'quick', where the blood vessels and nerves are. It is very difficult to judge where the quick is with black nails. Have your vet show you the proper technique.
VACCINATION AND DESEXING
All pet rabbits should now be vaccinated against rabbit calicivirus (RCD). The disease is almost always fatal and death occurs rapidly, within 12 鈥?18 hours, from respiratory and heart failure. There is no known treatment. Vaccination should be performed by your vet at 10 - 12 weeks of age. Only one dose is required at this time, and then yearly boosters are required for continuing protection.
Up to 80% of female rabbits will develop uterine cancer if not spayed - spaying of all female rabbits is strongly recommended. As well as preventing cancer, it reduces aggression, facilitates housetraining of indoor rabbits and allows rabbits to be housed together harmoniously. Desexing of both male and female rabbits is recommended at around 5-6 months of age.
Just as with pet dogs and cats, a yearly check-up for your rabbit is a good idea to ensure your rabbit has as healthy and happy a life as possible. This can be done at the time of the calicivirus vaccination and your vet can check and file your rabbit's teeth and get the toenails clipped as well.New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Housing
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
OK, i could just give you web links or some snatches of information from my own personal experience but I find it more helpful to give you this advice: go to petsmart or petco and buy a rabbit book. that way in case of emergency or quick reference you have your book right there to help you out.
Whew..Well we'll start with the vaccine part. There are a couple that are available at some vets for rabbits. It would be totally up to you if you wanted to check into that, or get vaccines. You would have to search around to find a vet that actually KNOWS about rabbits,,,,and not just cats and dogs. It usually takes a vet that specializes in exotics to know the anatomy and do's and don'ts of rabbits. That being said, I've raised and shown literally hundreds upon hundreds over the last dozen or more years, and I choose not to vaccinate. I've never lost a rabbit to any contracted disease. It would be good though to have a vet lined up, in case of an accident or emergency. They are as fastidious as cats, when it comes to keeping themselves clean. If you see a dirty, or dull haired rabbit, it would be a red flag for a problem. Unless they are ill, they are clean. If their rear end gets filthy,,there is a problem. Like any other animal, of course they can get into something that would dirty them beyond their ability to clean, and you may have to use dry shampoo (no baths unless you have no choice) or brush them to help.The need rabbit feed daily, and can survive, even thrive, on this alone. However, they will be happier and have a better immune system with added treats. They usually know what to eat, and what to avoid by instinct, but it isn't unheard of for one to eat a plant that doesn't agree with them. I would just watch him while he's in the garden, and watch for signs of an upset stomach after he's been out. I think the benifits outweigh the risks in letting him roam the garden.It's very good for him to have that exercise, and be able to 'graze' You can add timothy or bermuda hay to his diet to munch on during the day/night, and even veggies and/or fruits in moderation. Stay away from cabbage and/or lettuce as it has practically no nutritional value, and can cause gas and bloating. Carrots are fine as well as a piece of apple,pear,bell pepper etc. Just don't over do it with any fruit or veggie. Careful not to give apple seeds, as they contain a toxin in the cyanide family that can be dangerous to small animals. That's about it, other than enjoy him :o) they make great pets and are entertaining to watch them play. Oh yeah,,,they are nosy chewers, so watch him well while he's running around the house. They will not hesitate to snatch up a lamp cord etc. and start chewing away.Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions, and hope I helped a bit.
they clean themselves see the vet 1 a year make sure not to fed to much veggies they can get sick they can eat flowers just make sure that none are bad for him like poisonous or something don't worry about your bunny sounds very well loved!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow you have some really great answers, especially from mallissa...
I just want to say in addition that you can find a lot of resources online at www.rabbit.org
which is a great website for bunny owners. Good luck!
well first thing letting him eat plants that's not good most plant are like posing to young rabbits buy a rabbit book to see what plants are ok for him to eat.
Then buy him some little soft toys that he can play with like a ball with bells in it they like toys with bells. Then you can feed him things like carrots,lettuce,strawberries,Broccoli,ap鈥?slices wit so skin on them and make sure dont buy and snacks from the pet stores they have to much sugar in them and you rabbit can get worms and die. leting him run around the house is ok if your home but if leave lock him up or he will jump on your bed and use the bathroom cause they think it's ok to do while your not home.
Hope this helps you.
You have gotten some great advice, just a few extra things. Dark green lettuces such as Romaine is great for them but Iceburg is actually toxic to rabbits therefore should always be avoided. Our rabbits also like parsley ,cilantro, mint, mustard green, turnip greens, LOVE kale, collard greens and I'm not sure anyone mentioned grapes.
Another very important thing to remember to get wood pieces from the local pet store or Wal-mart etc. the ensure their teeth can file down otherwise they can literally grow right into their brain.
Our rabbits also love cardboard boxes and wicker baskets[make sure the wood is untreated] to dig in and chew on. Rabbits are wonderful pets and our whole family has enjoyed watching and playing with the rabbits. Best of luck to you and your new friend!
Looking after a pet rabbit is a very special responsibility. You need to provide adequate housing, a proper diet, regular grooming and veterinary check-ups, as well as give your rabbit plenty of love and attention.
Following is a look at some of the basic needs your rabbit requires for a happy and healthy life.
OUTDOOR HOUSING
Traditional rabbit hutch designs are usually too small and fail to meet a rabbit's needs - cramped cages restrict movement leading to spinal and behavioural problems, and hard or wire floors lead to foot problems and sore hocks.
An ideal hutch:
鈥? has a run with adequate room for the rabbit to stand up fully on its hind limbs and enough space to allow free movement, at the very least it should be able to take 3 successive hops
鈥? provides a sleeping area with a solid floor and sides to offer shelter, as well as somewhere to hide. The floor needs to be lined with soft, absorbent bedding such as straw, grass hay or unscented wood shavings and cleaned daily. A litter tray for toileting can be provided.
鈥? needs to be built from materials that are easy to clean and chew-proof - the hutch itself should be cleaned and scrubbed weekly
鈥? does not have wire flooring
鈥? should be well ventilated - wire mesh sides provide good light and ventilation, as well as mosquito protection
鈥? provides relief from extremes of temperature, wind and rain. The roof needs to be solid and sloped to protect from the elements and be hinged to allow ease of access for cleaning. Raise the hutch off the ground to protect from damp and place in a sheltered part of the garden with adequate sunlight (morning sun), but protected from wind and high temperatures.
鈥? includes water bottles, feeding bowl, hayrack and chew toys for environmental enrichment e.g. tree branches, wooden parrot toys, cardboard boxes and toilet roll tubes.
Confining a rabbit to a hutch for long periods is unsatisfactory, and actually harmful to the rabbit. These days more rabbits are housed, or at least allowed access to, indoors and are included more in family life.
EXERCISE
All pet rabbits should have daily exercise outside of the hutch - at least 4 hours to free roam. As well as preventing behavioural problems, exercise helps to ensure a healthy gut and prevent obesity and spinal problems.
A rabbit should never be left outside of the cage unsupervised and must be protected from predators and escape. A fenced enclosure with garden shrubbery or logs for shelter can be built around the hutch to provide safe exercise for the rabbit and access to grass, wood and bark. The fence needs to be dug in so the rabbit can't burrow under and be high enough that it can't jump out.
INDOOR HOUSING
Rabbits adapt easily to living inside and are suited to quiet households. Contrary to popular belief, they are better pets for adults than children - they are after all a prey animal and are naturally timid and wary. They do enjoy affection, however, as it helps them feel secure - make a fuss over them at ground level rather than picking them up and handling them excessively.
The house must be adequately 'rabbit-proofed' to protect them from chewing through electrical cords - either prevent access to these by placing behind furniture or cover in a hard plastic sleeving. Remove potentially poisonous plants, protect valuable furniture at ground level or prevent access to certain areas and provide a safe, allowable alternative for their chewing needs, such as chew toys, a piece of untreated, unpainted wood, cardboard boxes and piles of newspapers or old phonebooks to shred.
Provide a secure sleeping area e.g. a basket, tub or box under a table plus a cardboard box or two around the house that the rabbit can sit inside (cut out an entry plus an exit hole).
Many rabbits can be trained successfully to use a litter tray, especially for urinating, but it is not uncommon for them to leave droppings around from time to time - it is best to simply clean these up and not worry about it. Place a few droppings in the tray to try and encourage the rabbit to use the tray the next time - they are attracted to go in the same place by the smell.
COMPANIONSHIP
Rabbits are sociable animals so housing them with other rabbits is encouraged. Neutered rabbits of opposite or same sexes can be housed together. Any attempted introductions should be monitored closely as rabbits can inflict serious wounds on each other.
It is recommended not to house guinea pigs and rabbits together. Sometimes a rabbit and guinea pig can co-habit if they have been together since weaning, but in most cases the guinea pig is in danger of being kicked and injured by the rabbit. Rabbits may also carry infections that can affect guinea pigs.
FEEDING
The most common cause of gastrointestinal disease in rabbits is poor diet. The majority of commercially available rabbit foods are actually inappropriate for pet rabbits - they are too concentrated in carbohydrates and fats and lack appropriate levels of fibre, as well as don't allow for adequate dental wear and gastrointestinal movement.
Rabbits have a gastrointestinal system designed to digest large amounts of fibrous material. Wild rabbits eat grass %26amp; weeds, some flowers and other plant material, occasionally fruit and also chew on bark and branches.
Essentially rabbits should be fed a Hay and Vegetables diet:
鈥? Grass hay (meadow hay) should be available at all times. Grasses of most kinds can be offered (except for grass clippings as they often go mouldy), as well as a variety of garden weeds. Lucerne hay can be given in small amounts but not as the sole source of hay as it is too high in calcium.
鈥? A range of vegetables can be offered, especially leafy green vegetables such as spinach, bock Choy, cauliflower leaves, cabbage and Brussels sprout leaves. Celery, pea pods, herbs, broccoli, spring onions, sprouts, lettuce mixes, radish and carrot tops are also suitable. Carrots can be suspended from the cage to keep them occupied and increase time spent eating. Avoid raw beans, corn, rhubarb, and potato peels. Give about 250g/kg bodyweight per day of at least 3 different varieties.
鈥? Fruits can be offered occasionally as a treat e.g. apples, pears, oranges and strawberries. Give no more than 1-2 tablespoons per rabbit per day.
鈥? Feed limited quantities of pellets (no more than 3% of the rabbit's body weight) and avoid rabbit mixes altogether (selective feeding of items in the mix can lead to dietary deficiencies).
鈥? Twigs and branches from trees are good for rabbits to chew on.
鈥? No salt licks or supplements are required.
Fresh water needs to be provided 24 hours a day in a bowl that can鈥檛 be tipped over. Water bottles can be purchased that hang on the side of the cage. Rabbits are very prone to heat stress (temperatures above 28掳C) - keep them inside or in the shade and provide frozen water bottles to cuddle up to on hot days (rabbits can't sweat).
GROOMING
Apart from enjoying a good brush, grooming your rabbit regularly is important to its health and well being. Long-haired breeds require daily brushing to remove excess dead hair and prevent hairballs developing. Rabbits cannot vomit and hairballs are prone to cause intestinal obstructions. Daily grooming also allows for early detection of problems, and regular handling helps develop your rabbit's confidence and friendliness.
Periodic nail trimming is required to prevent harm to you and your family, as well as to other pets. Rabbits have sharp nails and can easily scratch when they kick out their back feet, often quite forcefully. Use nail trimmers designed for pets and clip the sharp tip of the nail so you aren't in danger of cutting too far down past the 'quick', where the blood vessels and nerves are. It is very difficult to judge where the quick is with black nails. Have your vet show you the proper technique.
VACCINATION AND DESEXING
All pet rabbits should now be vaccinated against rabbit calicivirus (RCD). The disease is almost always fatal and death occurs rapidly, within 12 鈥?18 hours, from respiratory and heart failure. There is no known treatment. Vaccination should be performed by your vet at 10 - 12 weeks of age. Only one dose is required at this time, and then yearly boosters are required for continuing protection.
Up to 80% of female rabbits will develop uterine cancer if not spayed - spaying of all female rabbits is strongly recommended. As well as preventing cancer, it reduces aggression, facilitates housetraining of indoor rabbits and allows rabbits to be housed together harmoniously. Desexing of both male and female rabbits is recommended at around 5-6 months of age.
Just as with pet dogs and cats, a yearly check-up for your rabbit is a good idea to ensure your rabbit has as healthy and happy a life as possible. This can be done at the time of the calicivirus vaccination and your vet can check and file your rabbit's teeth and get the toenails clipped as well.New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
History
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.
Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.
Housing
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
OK, i could just give you web links or some snatches of information from my own personal experience but I find it more helpful to give you this advice: go to petsmart or petco and buy a rabbit book. that way in case of emergency or quick reference you have your book right there to help you out.
Whew..Well we'll start with the vaccine part. There are a couple that are available at some vets for rabbits. It would be totally up to you if you wanted to check into that, or get vaccines. You would have to search around to find a vet that actually KNOWS about rabbits,,,,and not just cats and dogs. It usually takes a vet that specializes in exotics to know the anatomy and do's and don'ts of rabbits. That being said, I've raised and shown literally hundreds upon hundreds over the last dozen or more years, and I choose not to vaccinate. I've never lost a rabbit to any contracted disease. It would be good though to have a vet lined up, in case of an accident or emergency. They are as fastidious as cats, when it comes to keeping themselves clean. If you see a dirty, or dull haired rabbit, it would be a red flag for a problem. Unless they are ill, they are clean. If their rear end gets filthy,,there is a problem. Like any other animal, of course they can get into something that would dirty them beyond their ability to clean, and you may have to use dry shampoo (no baths unless you have no choice) or brush them to help.The need rabbit feed daily, and can survive, even thrive, on this alone. However, they will be happier and have a better immune system with added treats. They usually know what to eat, and what to avoid by instinct, but it isn't unheard of for one to eat a plant that doesn't agree with them. I would just watch him while he's in the garden, and watch for signs of an upset stomach after he's been out. I think the benifits outweigh the risks in letting him roam the garden.It's very good for him to have that exercise, and be able to 'graze' You can add timothy or bermuda hay to his diet to munch on during the day/night, and even veggies and/or fruits in moderation. Stay away from cabbage and/or lettuce as it has practically no nutritional value, and can cause gas and bloating. Carrots are fine as well as a piece of apple,pear,bell pepper etc. Just don't over do it with any fruit or veggie. Careful not to give apple seeds, as they contain a toxin in the cyanide family that can be dangerous to small animals. That's about it, other than enjoy him :o) they make great pets and are entertaining to watch them play. Oh yeah,,,they are nosy chewers, so watch him well while he's running around the house. They will not hesitate to snatch up a lamp cord etc. and start chewing away.Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions, and hope I helped a bit.
they clean themselves see the vet 1 a year make sure not to fed to much veggies they can get sick they can eat flowers just make sure that none are bad for him like poisonous or something don't worry about your bunny sounds very well loved!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow you have some really great answers, especially from mallissa...
I just want to say in addition that you can find a lot of resources online at www.rabbit.org
which is a great website for bunny owners. Good luck!
well first thing letting him eat plants that's not good most plant are like posing to young rabbits buy a rabbit book to see what plants are ok for him to eat.
Then buy him some little soft toys that he can play with like a ball with bells in it they like toys with bells. Then you can feed him things like carrots,lettuce,strawberries,Broccoli,ap鈥?slices wit so skin on them and make sure dont buy and snacks from the pet stores they have to much sugar in them and you rabbit can get worms and die. leting him run around the house is ok if your home but if leave lock him up or he will jump on your bed and use the bathroom cause they think it's ok to do while your not home.
Hope this helps you.
You have gotten some great advice, just a few extra things. Dark green lettuces such as Romaine is great for them but Iceburg is actually toxic to rabbits therefore should always be avoided. Our rabbits also like parsley ,cilantro, mint, mustard green, turnip greens, LOVE kale, collard greens and I'm not sure anyone mentioned grapes.
Another very important thing to remember to get wood pieces from the local pet store or Wal-mart etc. the ensure their teeth can file down otherwise they can literally grow right into their brain.
Our rabbits also love cardboard boxes and wicker baskets[make sure the wood is untreated] to dig in and chew on. Rabbits are wonderful pets and our whole family has enjoyed watching and playing with the rabbits. Best of luck to you and your new friend!
New at indoor tanning...need advice...?
I just started to go tanning in Indoor tanning beds, I've gone three times since I bought my minutes. The first time I went for 7 and didn't get burnt, the second time I went for 8 minutes and didn't get burnt so then the third time I went I went for 9 minutes and got really burnt! Is there anything I can do so I don't get burnt and I get tan faster?
And whats the best lotion to use? The workers at my tanning salon wanted me to buy this 60 dollar bottle of lotion for tanning. The brand was bare body butter. Then I went to walmart and found this 7 dollar lotion. Is there really that much of a difference between the two?
thanks for your answers in advanced!New at indoor tanning...need advice...?
next time just go for 8, and as soon as you feel yourself burning get out. it takes time getting a good base, but as soon as it's there, you'll build color fast! i've used both cheap lotions and expensive ones, but i do notice a lot better color comes from the salon quality lotions. my lotion is just under 100 dollars, but worth every penny! i use omega and it's amazing %26lt;3New at indoor tanning...need advice...?
Well, maybe your skin just isn't used to it, take a break and then try again. It used to happen to me too. It could also be that the tanning bed has new bulbs which means they're hotter and can burn you quicker.
I don't know the best lotion, but do not buy something that's 60 bucks. Try something with a bronzer in it, that always works for me.
And whats the best lotion to use? The workers at my tanning salon wanted me to buy this 60 dollar bottle of lotion for tanning. The brand was bare body butter. Then I went to walmart and found this 7 dollar lotion. Is there really that much of a difference between the two?
thanks for your answers in advanced!New at indoor tanning...need advice...?
next time just go for 8, and as soon as you feel yourself burning get out. it takes time getting a good base, but as soon as it's there, you'll build color fast! i've used both cheap lotions and expensive ones, but i do notice a lot better color comes from the salon quality lotions. my lotion is just under 100 dollars, but worth every penny! i use omega and it's amazing %26lt;3New at indoor tanning...need advice...?
Well, maybe your skin just isn't used to it, take a break and then try again. It used to happen to me too. It could also be that the tanning bed has new bulbs which means they're hotter and can burn you quicker.
I don't know the best lotion, but do not buy something that's 60 bucks. Try something with a bronzer in it, that always works for me.
New boy friend need some advice and help?
okay so my boy friend and i have been dating for like a couple weeks now. we are both 14 im on 8th grade and he is a freshman at a different school.(and please don't tell me im to young we ain't gunna have sex or anything!) but anyways the only time we get to see each other is at church.But we dont know how else to see eachother because neither one of us can drive yet :/ and yes we have kissed even though it was my first and not his. but i need alot of help cuz he is my first REAL boy friend. but here are some of my questions.
1. how can i see him
2.how do i like idk make out with him or somthing
3.hes really romantic what are some things romantic i can do
4.what should i talk to him about
5.how do i keep him intrested(not having sex or anything)
6.what lil things do guys like for girls to do(again no sex)
7.what things should i get him for his birthday,christmas,ext.
any advice or answers would be gratly appriciated, im not to young i am ready for a relationship and i really like him i just dont know what to do please help :(New boy friend need some advice and help?
1. Invite him to whatever your family is doing. He can invite you to things his family is doing. Or both of your families can get together and do things. This really is fun. I love doing things with my husband's family(well, some of them. Some of his family is into booze and drugs.), and he loves doing things with mine(all of them).
2. Don't go there. Making out often leads to sex, and there comes a point where you may not be able to stop yourself. You aren't ready for the consequences of such behavior.
3. Be yourself.
4. Whatever comes to mind.
5. You shouldn't have to work at keeping him interested. He's dating you for you. As long as you are yourself, that alone should keep him interested. If you do, then this isn't a good match.
6. Pay attention to them. Hang out. Guys aren't into that mushy stuff.
7. Get him things he likes. Like say he likes a certain singer. If that singer has a new CD or whatever out around the time of his birthday, holiday, etc. get it for him.New boy friend need some advice and help?
Don't rush things, it is great how you feel about the no sex stuff! If you are really interested in this boy, have you told your parents? Maybe you guys could go to the movies with a group of friends(have you parents drop you off or chaperon) Invite him over for video games or something. Romantic stuff... have a picnic, go for ice-cream, hang out at the park swings. Do kid stuff, I know it is a stupid answer but that is really where you can have fun together and not be so serious or think things need to move super fast. As you know you are young (in years) and you have plenty of time to get to know eachother. Good gifts... find out what he likes to do... video games, read, draw, build things, you can get lots of different things but Gift certificates then maybe going shopping for the item he wants together. Hope thats helpsorigins
1. how can i see him
2.how do i like idk make out with him or somthing
3.hes really romantic what are some things romantic i can do
4.what should i talk to him about
5.how do i keep him intrested(not having sex or anything)
6.what lil things do guys like for girls to do(again no sex)
7.what things should i get him for his birthday,christmas,ext.
any advice or answers would be gratly appriciated, im not to young i am ready for a relationship and i really like him i just dont know what to do please help :(New boy friend need some advice and help?
1. Invite him to whatever your family is doing. He can invite you to things his family is doing. Or both of your families can get together and do things. This really is fun. I love doing things with my husband's family(well, some of them. Some of his family is into booze and drugs.), and he loves doing things with mine(all of them).
2. Don't go there. Making out often leads to sex, and there comes a point where you may not be able to stop yourself. You aren't ready for the consequences of such behavior.
3. Be yourself.
4. Whatever comes to mind.
5. You shouldn't have to work at keeping him interested. He's dating you for you. As long as you are yourself, that alone should keep him interested. If you do, then this isn't a good match.
6. Pay attention to them. Hang out. Guys aren't into that mushy stuff.
7. Get him things he likes. Like say he likes a certain singer. If that singer has a new CD or whatever out around the time of his birthday, holiday, etc. get it for him.New boy friend need some advice and help?
Don't rush things, it is great how you feel about the no sex stuff! If you are really interested in this boy, have you told your parents? Maybe you guys could go to the movies with a group of friends(have you parents drop you off or chaperon) Invite him over for video games or something. Romantic stuff... have a picnic, go for ice-cream, hang out at the park swings. Do kid stuff, I know it is a stupid answer but that is really where you can have fun together and not be so serious or think things need to move super fast. As you know you are young (in years) and you have plenty of time to get to know eachother. Good gifts... find out what he likes to do... video games, read, draw, build things, you can get lots of different things but Gift certificates then maybe going shopping for the item he wants together. Hope thats helps
New to bike riding--need advice on the gears to use.?
I've ridden before, but a long long time ago. I just got this bike yesterday, and its a great bike. Its a mountain bike with 18 gears (as I was told).. I read a little online about the gears. The one on the right clicks three times, so I'm guessing thats the back wheel. I'm just confused because the one on the left handle DOES NOT click at all. It just slides up and down. I know there should be 6 different gears on there but I can't tell just by sliding it.
I'm still kind of clueless on which gears not to use.. at least in practice. The chain just came off due to my experimenting with the gears on the way home so I really dont want it to happen again. I know you shouldnt use the big big gears or small small..so shifting down on both is bad and shifting up on both is bad, I think? .. Which combination are for uphill?
If you can help then please respond. Thanks.New to bike riding--need advice on the gears to use.?
As MV said, some shifters are ';indexed'; -- which means they click, while others just slide. Indexing means the gears will stop in just the right place (assuming they are adjusted right). Non-indexed shifters are a little trickier ... you have to move the lever slowly a bit past the ideal position while you pedal until the gear changes to the next cog, then back off slightly so any chain noise stops. The stops (adjustable screws that limit travel) on the front derailleur should allow you to simply move the lever all the way one way to get into the smallest front gear (easiest to peddle) and all the way the other way for the big gear (hardest to peddle), while the middle gear will be in between (and you will have to find the right position by tial and error until you get used to it. The big secret for front shifting is to shift slowly while peddling. If you move the lever too fast you may throw the chain off (as you found out).
It sounds like you have index shifting on the back (right lever) and non-index (also called ';friction'; shifting) on the front (left lever).
If your bike is a mountain bike with 18 gears it has 3 big gears at the front and 6 at the back (hence the 18 = 3 x 6).
You shift the chain between the 3 front gears with the left lever, and among the 6 rear gears with the right lever.
Until you get used to changing gears put the chain on the middle gear at the front. Then use the 6 gears at the back. The smallest gear at the back is the hardest to turn and makes you go the fastest. The largest gear at the back is the easiest to turn and is used for medium hills/slopes. Choose in between gears for conditions in between.
Basically, you can probably do 80-90% of your rides in the front middle gear. You only need the small front gear for fairly steep hills, and the front large gear for when you have a tailwind or want to go really fast downhill.
For now focus on your peddle stroke, and try to use a gear that allows you to fairly comfortably turn the cranks at 70-90 rpm. If you peddle more slowly it puts stress on your knees and more quickly will probably make you breath harder.
Peddle with the ball of the foot on the pedal -- not the arch. That way you can use the muscles in your ankle and foot, not just your those in your leg.
Good luck.New to bike riding--need advice on the gears to use.?
Usually the shifter for the front rings is on the left side and the shifter for the rear cogs is on the Right side (easy to remember, Right = Rear).
Some shifters use indexed shifting, which is the clicking you hear. Some use friction shifting which means you kinda feel how far to push or pull the lever to shift. Some shifters can operate in either mode.
First to figure out how many gears you have is very simple you multiply the number of front sprocket gears times the number of gears on the back thats all there is to that.
Second part is just ride what gear you feel comfortable in without working to hard or to easy for you and always start off from complete stop in an easy gear
I'm still kind of clueless on which gears not to use.. at least in practice. The chain just came off due to my experimenting with the gears on the way home so I really dont want it to happen again. I know you shouldnt use the big big gears or small small..so shifting down on both is bad and shifting up on both is bad, I think? .. Which combination are for uphill?
If you can help then please respond. Thanks.New to bike riding--need advice on the gears to use.?
As MV said, some shifters are ';indexed'; -- which means they click, while others just slide. Indexing means the gears will stop in just the right place (assuming they are adjusted right). Non-indexed shifters are a little trickier ... you have to move the lever slowly a bit past the ideal position while you pedal until the gear changes to the next cog, then back off slightly so any chain noise stops. The stops (adjustable screws that limit travel) on the front derailleur should allow you to simply move the lever all the way one way to get into the smallest front gear (easiest to peddle) and all the way the other way for the big gear (hardest to peddle), while the middle gear will be in between (and you will have to find the right position by tial and error until you get used to it. The big secret for front shifting is to shift slowly while peddling. If you move the lever too fast you may throw the chain off (as you found out).
It sounds like you have index shifting on the back (right lever) and non-index (also called ';friction'; shifting) on the front (left lever).
If your bike is a mountain bike with 18 gears it has 3 big gears at the front and 6 at the back (hence the 18 = 3 x 6).
You shift the chain between the 3 front gears with the left lever, and among the 6 rear gears with the right lever.
Until you get used to changing gears put the chain on the middle gear at the front. Then use the 6 gears at the back. The smallest gear at the back is the hardest to turn and makes you go the fastest. The largest gear at the back is the easiest to turn and is used for medium hills/slopes. Choose in between gears for conditions in between.
Basically, you can probably do 80-90% of your rides in the front middle gear. You only need the small front gear for fairly steep hills, and the front large gear for when you have a tailwind or want to go really fast downhill.
For now focus on your peddle stroke, and try to use a gear that allows you to fairly comfortably turn the cranks at 70-90 rpm. If you peddle more slowly it puts stress on your knees and more quickly will probably make you breath harder.
Peddle with the ball of the foot on the pedal -- not the arch. That way you can use the muscles in your ankle and foot, not just your those in your leg.
Good luck.New to bike riding--need advice on the gears to use.?
Usually the shifter for the front rings is on the left side and the shifter for the rear cogs is on the Right side (easy to remember, Right = Rear).
Some shifters use indexed shifting, which is the clicking you hear. Some use friction shifting which means you kinda feel how far to push or pull the lever to shift. Some shifters can operate in either mode.
First to figure out how many gears you have is very simple you multiply the number of front sprocket gears times the number of gears on the back thats all there is to that.
Second part is just ride what gear you feel comfortable in without working to hard or to easy for you and always start off from complete stop in an easy gear
New at X-Country running! Help/advice?
Hi! I just joined my school's cross country running team and we have meets almost every week and they vary from 2 miles to 4. I need help with the following, but any ways any advice would be helpful. I am really out of shape and running miles is hard for me. I have been running for about 2 weeks now...
1) I get this sharp pain in my side, like under my ribs, whenever I start to run, and it hurts to run! What is this and is there something I can do about it?
2) Just starting running and get out of breath really quickly, how do I get used to this? what should my distance be until I can ran 2 miles without stopping?
3) There are 2 miles meets every week and I KNOW that I can't run them yet, what should I do?
Thank you so much for your advice. STORIES ARE WELCOME AS WELL! Thank you again!New at X-Country running! Help/advice?
ight well. for the number one part. i kno that when your a runner breathing is obiviously nessary. so the pain you get are called '; side stiches '; yea i kno but its the breathing wrong that cuases them. but you need to do its when you get home practice breathing this is how you do it.
when you breathe in your stomach should go out. and when you exhale it should go in. everyones use to breathing in as in sucking in your stomach when inhale and let it go out exhale. do it the oppisite way. trust me do it for like an hour like do your hw and do it. it works
to answer number 2 what you should do is going out not too fast but keep it at a steady pace. dont do it like if it were a 400 sprinting all out. think of it as a very long steady 400 and youll be by the end of the race before you kno it.
the heavy feet question- yes it has and what i do is pump my arms. keep your arms in motion and you will keep your legs in motion. you will need them on hillie places and your going to need it when your passing people. so keep it in motion and youll do fine.New at X-Country running! Help/advice?
sorry this answer probably won't help but i'll try
1) make sure you don't drink/eat too much too soon before you run
2) I know what you mean on this, just make sure to pace yourself and keep on pushing. I know it is so hard when you're actually doing it but you have to and thats how you get better
3) just try, even if you're the last one just make sure you finish no matter how slow you go.
1) I get this sharp pain in my side, like under my ribs, whenever I start to run, and it hurts to run! What is this and is there something I can do about it?
2) Just starting running and get out of breath really quickly, how do I get used to this? what should my distance be until I can ran 2 miles without stopping?
3) There are 2 miles meets every week and I KNOW that I can't run them yet, what should I do?
Thank you so much for your advice. STORIES ARE WELCOME AS WELL! Thank you again!New at X-Country running! Help/advice?
ight well. for the number one part. i kno that when your a runner breathing is obiviously nessary. so the pain you get are called '; side stiches '; yea i kno but its the breathing wrong that cuases them. but you need to do its when you get home practice breathing this is how you do it.
when you breathe in your stomach should go out. and when you exhale it should go in. everyones use to breathing in as in sucking in your stomach when inhale and let it go out exhale. do it the oppisite way. trust me do it for like an hour like do your hw and do it. it works
to answer number 2 what you should do is going out not too fast but keep it at a steady pace. dont do it like if it were a 400 sprinting all out. think of it as a very long steady 400 and youll be by the end of the race before you kno it.
the heavy feet question- yes it has and what i do is pump my arms. keep your arms in motion and you will keep your legs in motion. you will need them on hillie places and your going to need it when your passing people. so keep it in motion and youll do fine.New at X-Country running! Help/advice?
sorry this answer probably won't help but i'll try
1) make sure you don't drink/eat too much too soon before you run
2) I know what you mean on this, just make sure to pace yourself and keep on pushing. I know it is so hard when you're actually doing it but you have to and thats how you get better
3) just try, even if you're the last one just make sure you finish no matter how slow you go.
New lab puppy not house broken, advice?
i'm watching my sister's new puppy (he's a black lab) he's cute and playful buh has a bitting problem, HE BITES EVERYTHING from cords to blankets to even mi when i'm walking! i work tomorrow for 6hours and have to leave him alone, this will be his first time by himself i kno he will cry... i donno wut to do! should i keep him outside where the heat might get to him and having him rips apart my moms garden (which would be hilarious, buh she would be so pissed) plus he'll be cryin the whole time... or inside in one room, hoping to god he doesn't tear up anythin?New lab puppy not house broken, advice?
Hi i would put him in your bathroom get a baby gate and put papers down, food, water, toys, blanket or bed etc. in there and make sure he has some chew toys. Take everything out of the bathroom that he could chew. And remember to take off the toilet paper and holder too or he will shred that and that is such a mess, been there, done that. He will not cry all day, but be sure he has some toys to chew on and maybe some chew bones. Good Luck.New lab puppy not house broken, advice?
If he doesn't have a crate, keep him inside, in a small, easily-cleaned, puppy-proofed room. It would be best if someone can come and take him outside to go potty every couple of hours.
Probably the one room thing, we did that with our puppy for the beginning. Hide as much as possible (make it a room like laundry or bathroom with tiles and no furniture), provide some chewy toys. Good luck.
Hi i would put him in your bathroom get a baby gate and put papers down, food, water, toys, blanket or bed etc. in there and make sure he has some chew toys. Take everything out of the bathroom that he could chew. And remember to take off the toilet paper and holder too or he will shred that and that is such a mess, been there, done that. He will not cry all day, but be sure he has some toys to chew on and maybe some chew bones. Good Luck.New lab puppy not house broken, advice?
If he doesn't have a crate, keep him inside, in a small, easily-cleaned, puppy-proofed room. It would be best if someone can come and take him outside to go potty every couple of hours.
Probably the one room thing, we did that with our puppy for the beginning. Hide as much as possible (make it a room like laundry or bathroom with tiles and no furniture), provide some chewy toys. Good luck.
New cat, old cat tips any advice?
Well we just got ourselfs a maine coon kitten...which is currently bigger than our older cat, the maine coon kitten is absoulutly adoreable! and so kind hearted problem is our old cat isnt taking to him as we would like, we tried locking them in a room together yesterday with supervision, our old cat just kept hissing at our new cat, and she even tried to leap off the chair into the kitchen unfortuantly that door was firmly shut (you should have seen it, it was hilarious!)
I love both cats and dont want my old cat to run away, how can we get them used to eachother??
we tried introducing them both to eachothers scents, and the new cat is fine with it, our old cat finally stopped hissing at his scent so we introduced them but yeah, any advice?.
(btw the new cat is a spayed male, and the old cat is a spayed female)New cat, old cat tips any advice?
Bringing home a new kitten is exciting but can put stress on the cat that already rules the roost, especially if your cat has been the only pet. Patience and time is the key to harmony within the furry members of your family.
Keep the new kitten separated in a room, letting your current cat still have the run of the house. If possible, keep the new kitten in a room where they can smell each other under the door. They may growl or hiss at the door but they cannot hurt each other.
Wipe the new kitten down with a dry washcloth or towel and let the old cat smell it. Use the same washcloth to wipe the old cat, then let the kitten smell it. This introduces them to each others smell without interaction.
After a week, take the new kitten out of its room and introduce her to the old cat. Make sure you are present in case of a fight. Do not let the old cat in the new cat鈥檚 room. The new cat should feel that it has a safe place. If the cats fight, you can hold off a few more days before the next interaction.
Continue to have ';chaperoned'; meetings. Do not scold your old cat for growling, only if she attacks. Start the meetings out short, then go for longer distances. Let them smell each other and be curiousNew cat, old cat tips any advice?
Oh not a problem i introduced my new kitten, Shiloh, to my 11year old cat,lucky, about 6 months ago they hated eachother at the start they hissed at eachother and stayed at different parts of the room but after about 2 weeks they were sleeping in the same bed togerther and eating together now that Shiloh is 7 months old they are inseperable.
Lucky cleans Shiloh and they are best friends. So just be patient they will warm up to eachother.:)
hope this helps Rach xoxo
Most people seem to advise leaving them to take their time.
Cats can be very stubborn and you don't want to set up a pattern of adverse behaviour.
As you probably know cats are very territorial so it may take some time. It may be that the older cat will just learn to tolerate and live with the younger cat, or it may be that they become good friends.
We did this once and it did take a long time for the older cat but one day we found them curled up together in the same basket.
http://gettinginfo.us.to
A very informative website you can also get much information in website
Just be patient and wait a few days and your cats will get used to each other. :)
Blessings,
Bailey
It's just a matter of time. This always happens when a new cat is introduced, it's because the ';resident'; has been used to being top cat in the household and now there's a new set-up. The spitting and hissing is part of feline politics as they decide between themselves who is now the ';leader';, so to speak. It's important that you show plenty of affection to both, to reassure the newcomer that he is welcome and to reassure the old girl that you still love her. They'll sort it out soon and settle down.
In my experience, they will work it out between themselves. Unless there is actual violence occurring between them try to be patient. I don't think this will cause your older cat to run away-cats dislike change.
Do make sure that all resources are spread throughout the house because a favorite tactic is to block access to food, water, litter box, toys, etc.-cats are great stealth intimidators. If these are available in more than one area this is impossible.
Four years ago I ended up adopting a young male stray the same age as another male I had-it's a long story but couldn't find him a home. This is the easiest going cat you ever saw, but it's taken until this winter for he and the other male to get along! You should have an easier time with the different ages and sexes. Be patient and don't force it.
I love both cats and dont want my old cat to run away, how can we get them used to eachother??
we tried introducing them both to eachothers scents, and the new cat is fine with it, our old cat finally stopped hissing at his scent so we introduced them but yeah, any advice?.
(btw the new cat is a spayed male, and the old cat is a spayed female)New cat, old cat tips any advice?
Bringing home a new kitten is exciting but can put stress on the cat that already rules the roost, especially if your cat has been the only pet. Patience and time is the key to harmony within the furry members of your family.
Keep the new kitten separated in a room, letting your current cat still have the run of the house. If possible, keep the new kitten in a room where they can smell each other under the door. They may growl or hiss at the door but they cannot hurt each other.
Wipe the new kitten down with a dry washcloth or towel and let the old cat smell it. Use the same washcloth to wipe the old cat, then let the kitten smell it. This introduces them to each others smell without interaction.
After a week, take the new kitten out of its room and introduce her to the old cat. Make sure you are present in case of a fight. Do not let the old cat in the new cat鈥檚 room. The new cat should feel that it has a safe place. If the cats fight, you can hold off a few more days before the next interaction.
Continue to have ';chaperoned'; meetings. Do not scold your old cat for growling, only if she attacks. Start the meetings out short, then go for longer distances. Let them smell each other and be curiousNew cat, old cat tips any advice?
Oh not a problem i introduced my new kitten, Shiloh, to my 11year old cat,lucky, about 6 months ago they hated eachother at the start they hissed at eachother and stayed at different parts of the room but after about 2 weeks they were sleeping in the same bed togerther and eating together now that Shiloh is 7 months old they are inseperable.
Lucky cleans Shiloh and they are best friends. So just be patient they will warm up to eachother.:)
hope this helps Rach xoxo
Most people seem to advise leaving them to take their time.
Cats can be very stubborn and you don't want to set up a pattern of adverse behaviour.
As you probably know cats are very territorial so it may take some time. It may be that the older cat will just learn to tolerate and live with the younger cat, or it may be that they become good friends.
We did this once and it did take a long time for the older cat but one day we found them curled up together in the same basket.
http://gettinginfo.us.to
A very informative website you can also get much information in website
Just be patient and wait a few days and your cats will get used to each other. :)
Blessings,
Bailey
It's just a matter of time. This always happens when a new cat is introduced, it's because the ';resident'; has been used to being top cat in the household and now there's a new set-up. The spitting and hissing is part of feline politics as they decide between themselves who is now the ';leader';, so to speak. It's important that you show plenty of affection to both, to reassure the newcomer that he is welcome and to reassure the old girl that you still love her. They'll sort it out soon and settle down.
In my experience, they will work it out between themselves. Unless there is actual violence occurring between them try to be patient. I don't think this will cause your older cat to run away-cats dislike change.
Do make sure that all resources are spread throughout the house because a favorite tactic is to block access to food, water, litter box, toys, etc.-cats are great stealth intimidators. If these are available in more than one area this is impossible.
Four years ago I ended up adopting a young male stray the same age as another male I had-it's a long story but couldn't find him a home. This is the easiest going cat you ever saw, but it's taken until this winter for he and the other male to get along! You should have an easier time with the different ages and sexes. Be patient and don't force it.
New to Wicca (sort of)...any advice?
I'm not exactly new to it but more returning to it. I did some study years ago and have recently begun studying again. I'm really enjoying learning and re-learning but I'm not quite sure what my next steps should be. I've done quite a bit of reading, am practicing meditation and dream recall (meditation being the most difficult for me) and have started a journal to write in daily and record important information. Any advice on what my next steps should be (aside from continuing to study and meditate)? Thanks.New to Wicca (sort of)...any advice?
Merry Meet,
If you are interested about learning Wicca and/or Witchcraft here are a few legitimate sources to glean knowledge from. One being Witchvox at http://www.witchvox.com/. Here you will gain knowledge through fellowship with other of like mind and knowledge through the countless articles posted. If this is not enough one could look into getting online training through the Sacred Mists at http://www.workingwitches.com/wicca/cour鈥?/a> or OZ Wicca at http://www.ozwicca.com/ , both are pretty decent for learning the Craft on the Web.
Also if you are close enough to a group that specializes in education and development like the SCWF try and join them even if it鈥檚 on a limited capacity. Ultimately, study, study and then study some more. Find all you can and definitely cross reference whenever possible, this way you can get the best out of all you learn.
I also suggest that you get your hands on Wicca for Beginners by Thea Sabin and/or The Circle Within by Dianne Sylvan. Both of these books are very good reading and both will give you some deeper insight to the Craft and how it relates to you. Also you cannot go wrong with anything by Scott Cunningham.
If you are a teen, I suggest Elements of Witchcraft: Natural Magick for Teens by Ellen Dugan. Teen Witch by Silver Ravenwolf is also good. But neither are completely accurate, but they will help you out.
Ultimately, study as much as you need to before deciding that you are Wiccan. Find those near you who are reputable and knowledgeable. Also stay away from those who are playing Wicca if you are serious about the religion and the craft, they will only slow you down and/or mislead you. Also, read all the books you can, the good ones as well as the bad ones. Let you be the one that decides who鈥檚 a good or bad author not someone else, because every author in my book has something to offer all you have to do is ignore the information that is not accurate. Oh, and when the opportunity rises cross reference the information learned for accurace.
I hope my blurp helps out.
Blessed Be
NyjhNew to Wicca (sort of)...any advice?
I would suggest doing perhaps daily offerings to Lord %26amp; Lady. And of course reading alot. Perhaps beginning a Book of Shadows would also be a good next step.
What tradition are you? That may help in what your next step should be. And of course if your not of a specific tradition, perhaps defining for yourself what it is you beleive and honor would be a great next step.
Ya know, you can always re-do your BoS! If your on youtube, I would totally check out some of the vids on Wicca. I have found some by CharmingPixieFlora that are really great! She is in my subscribed to list if you want to check her out http://www.youtube.com/Nekhtet1975
1) Go to http://wicca.timerift.net and use their book review section to help you find good resources. Heck, the entire site is excellent.
2) Stay FAR away from Silver Ravenwolf: her scholarship is shoddy, her ethics are questionable, and she has a persecution streak a mile wide.
3) Take time each day to commune with the Goddess and the God; for example, you could light candles dedicated to Them, offer Them incense, and pray/speak to Them. Wicca (at least as I was taught) is first and foremost about having a relationship with the Gods of our religion.
4) Start doing regular ritual work (full moons, the sabbats). Scott Cunningham's ';Wicca: A Guide for the Solitary Practitioner'; has rituals for such occasions, and Thea Sabin's ';Wicca for Beginners'; will give you solid theory to work from.
5) Find other Wiccans in your area, if possible, and get some practical experience working in groups. http://www.witchvox.com/xvn.html will help you locate individuals and groups in your part of the world.
Best of luck to you.
That stuff is interesting and I have talked to some of the nicest and helpful people that are into that. There are a lot of people into that on http://www.meetup.com/ its free to sign on, put in your zip code to find other people. Some of the meet ups are held in libraries and resturants that I have came across. There is other meets up you might be interesting in pagan, meditation, dreams, witches, wicca, healing, shaman, herbs. All kinds of stuff. Oh they have meet up about other stuff too, food, crafts, hobbies, languages, religion. I hope this helps. I like the site and going to a meet up this Sat. in my area.
I would go back to basics until you have refreshed yourself in the knowledge. :D
Suggested Reading List
Wicca: A Guide for the Solitary Practitioner by Scott Cunningham
Living Wicca: A Further Guide for the Solitary Practitioner by Scott Cunningham
Complete Book of Incense, Oils and Brews by Scott Cunningham
Book of Shadows: A Modern Woman鈥檚 Journey into the Wisdom of Witchcraft and the Magic of the Goddess by Phyllis Curott
Green Witchcraft by Aoumiel (Ann Moura)
True Magick by Amber K
Inner Temple of Witchcraft: Magick, Meditation and Psychic Development by Christopher Penczak
Heart of Wicca: Wise Words from a Crone on the Path by Ellen Cannon Reed
The Spiral Dance by Starhawk
Natural Magic by Marian Green
Wheel of the Year: Living the Magical Life by Pauline Campanelli
The Triumph of the Moon: A History of Modern Pagan
Witchcraft by Ronald Hutton
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at
http://allexperts.com/expert.cgi?m=1%26amp;cat鈥?/a>
i'm new to the ';magical'; art too. (spells %26amp; stuff)
you're doing everything i'm doing so i can't help you very much...
but! i say just keep practicing
~a fellow wizard
Prairiecrow has some good advice.origins
Merry Meet,
If you are interested about learning Wicca and/or Witchcraft here are a few legitimate sources to glean knowledge from. One being Witchvox at http://www.witchvox.com/. Here you will gain knowledge through fellowship with other of like mind and knowledge through the countless articles posted. If this is not enough one could look into getting online training through the Sacred Mists at http://www.workingwitches.com/wicca/cour鈥?/a> or OZ Wicca at http://www.ozwicca.com/ , both are pretty decent for learning the Craft on the Web.
Also if you are close enough to a group that specializes in education and development like the SCWF try and join them even if it鈥檚 on a limited capacity. Ultimately, study, study and then study some more. Find all you can and definitely cross reference whenever possible, this way you can get the best out of all you learn.
I also suggest that you get your hands on Wicca for Beginners by Thea Sabin and/or The Circle Within by Dianne Sylvan. Both of these books are very good reading and both will give you some deeper insight to the Craft and how it relates to you. Also you cannot go wrong with anything by Scott Cunningham.
If you are a teen, I suggest Elements of Witchcraft: Natural Magick for Teens by Ellen Dugan. Teen Witch by Silver Ravenwolf is also good. But neither are completely accurate, but they will help you out.
Ultimately, study as much as you need to before deciding that you are Wiccan. Find those near you who are reputable and knowledgeable. Also stay away from those who are playing Wicca if you are serious about the religion and the craft, they will only slow you down and/or mislead you. Also, read all the books you can, the good ones as well as the bad ones. Let you be the one that decides who鈥檚 a good or bad author not someone else, because every author in my book has something to offer all you have to do is ignore the information that is not accurate. Oh, and when the opportunity rises cross reference the information learned for accurace.
I hope my blurp helps out.
Blessed Be
NyjhNew to Wicca (sort of)...any advice?
I would suggest doing perhaps daily offerings to Lord %26amp; Lady. And of course reading alot. Perhaps beginning a Book of Shadows would also be a good next step.
What tradition are you? That may help in what your next step should be. And of course if your not of a specific tradition, perhaps defining for yourself what it is you beleive and honor would be a great next step.
Ya know, you can always re-do your BoS! If your on youtube, I would totally check out some of the vids on Wicca. I have found some by CharmingPixieFlora that are really great! She is in my subscribed to list if you want to check her out http://www.youtube.com/Nekhtet1975
1) Go to http://wicca.timerift.net and use their book review section to help you find good resources. Heck, the entire site is excellent.
2) Stay FAR away from Silver Ravenwolf: her scholarship is shoddy, her ethics are questionable, and she has a persecution streak a mile wide.
3) Take time each day to commune with the Goddess and the God; for example, you could light candles dedicated to Them, offer Them incense, and pray/speak to Them. Wicca (at least as I was taught) is first and foremost about having a relationship with the Gods of our religion.
4) Start doing regular ritual work (full moons, the sabbats). Scott Cunningham's ';Wicca: A Guide for the Solitary Practitioner'; has rituals for such occasions, and Thea Sabin's ';Wicca for Beginners'; will give you solid theory to work from.
5) Find other Wiccans in your area, if possible, and get some practical experience working in groups. http://www.witchvox.com/xvn.html will help you locate individuals and groups in your part of the world.
Best of luck to you.
That stuff is interesting and I have talked to some of the nicest and helpful people that are into that. There are a lot of people into that on http://www.meetup.com/ its free to sign on, put in your zip code to find other people. Some of the meet ups are held in libraries and resturants that I have came across. There is other meets up you might be interesting in pagan, meditation, dreams, witches, wicca, healing, shaman, herbs. All kinds of stuff. Oh they have meet up about other stuff too, food, crafts, hobbies, languages, religion. I hope this helps. I like the site and going to a meet up this Sat. in my area.
I would go back to basics until you have refreshed yourself in the knowledge. :D
Suggested Reading List
Wicca: A Guide for the Solitary Practitioner by Scott Cunningham
Living Wicca: A Further Guide for the Solitary Practitioner by Scott Cunningham
Complete Book of Incense, Oils and Brews by Scott Cunningham
Book of Shadows: A Modern Woman鈥檚 Journey into the Wisdom of Witchcraft and the Magic of the Goddess by Phyllis Curott
Green Witchcraft by Aoumiel (Ann Moura)
True Magick by Amber K
Inner Temple of Witchcraft: Magick, Meditation and Psychic Development by Christopher Penczak
Heart of Wicca: Wise Words from a Crone on the Path by Ellen Cannon Reed
The Spiral Dance by Starhawk
Natural Magic by Marian Green
Wheel of the Year: Living the Magical Life by Pauline Campanelli
The Triumph of the Moon: A History of Modern Pagan
Witchcraft by Ronald Hutton
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at
http://allexperts.com/expert.cgi?m=1%26amp;cat鈥?/a>
i'm new to the ';magical'; art too. (spells %26amp; stuff)
you're doing everything i'm doing so i can't help you very much...
but! i say just keep practicing
~a fellow wizard
Prairiecrow has some good advice.
New baby mice, looking for some advice?
I have a pet mouse, first of all, who is a year old (his name is Sammich Mousey/ Mr. Mousey..yes, kinda corny and weird)
Anyways, I got two new pet mice (both boys!) that are very small (1/4 the size of my older mouse) but obviously weaned. They have a seperate cage (the older one didnt like them) and they have a running wheel (they're too little to use it, though..)
But, they're both very skittish and one even bit me! The other one is very sweet but Loves to run around and such. I have cats and dogs so I need to keep them from getting loose. Plus they're in my room and could easily hide in the heating vent or a shoe or something and go missing. How can I tame them down (hopefully without getting bit again..) and, if its even possible, introduce them SLOWLY to my older mouse?
Also, I need some name ideas. Something ORIGINAL (and easy to pronounce) or something you dont hear often (meaning not :squeaky, mousey, mr. whisker, ect)New baby mice, looking for some advice?
Pinocchio
Fluff-ball
Cream %26amp; Crackers
Squeakery Doodle
Amigo
Chedder
Cheze
Cinnamon
Chester
Buster
Dangermouse
Elmo
Geppetto
Jacques
Milo
Mini %26amp; Mighty
Nugget
Mocha
Joe %26amp; Moe
Nibbler
OJ
Oreo
Peanut %26amp; Butter
Professor Squeak
Quasimoto
Sputnik
Sprinkles
Amos %26amp; Andy
Ant %26amp; Dec
Bling %26amp; Gansta, or Punk
Pepples %26amp; Bam Bam
Wilbur
Walace %26amp; GrommitNew baby mice, looking for some advice?
mr jingles - thats what the mouse was called in the green mile (i love that movie)
Anyways, I got two new pet mice (both boys!) that are very small (1/4 the size of my older mouse) but obviously weaned. They have a seperate cage (the older one didnt like them) and they have a running wheel (they're too little to use it, though..)
But, they're both very skittish and one even bit me! The other one is very sweet but Loves to run around and such. I have cats and dogs so I need to keep them from getting loose. Plus they're in my room and could easily hide in the heating vent or a shoe or something and go missing. How can I tame them down (hopefully without getting bit again..) and, if its even possible, introduce them SLOWLY to my older mouse?
Also, I need some name ideas. Something ORIGINAL (and easy to pronounce) or something you dont hear often (meaning not :squeaky, mousey, mr. whisker, ect)New baby mice, looking for some advice?
Pinocchio
Fluff-ball
Cream %26amp; Crackers
Squeakery Doodle
Amigo
Chedder
Cheze
Cinnamon
Chester
Buster
Dangermouse
Elmo
Geppetto
Jacques
Milo
Mini %26amp; Mighty
Nugget
Mocha
Joe %26amp; Moe
Nibbler
OJ
Oreo
Peanut %26amp; Butter
Professor Squeak
Quasimoto
Sputnik
Sprinkles
Amos %26amp; Andy
Ant %26amp; Dec
Bling %26amp; Gansta, or Punk
Pepples %26amp; Bam Bam
Wilbur
Walace %26amp; GrommitNew baby mice, looking for some advice?
mr jingles - thats what the mouse was called in the green mile (i love that movie)
New to Gardening and really need advice on flower bed design..?
I have a new bricked in flower bed that is about 15 feet wide and 3 feet deep. I am in zone 6b and the garden is in mostly full sun for the day.
So far I have two Emerald Isle Leyland Cypress (small spirals)and two Golden Euonymus to the rear of the bed. In front I have Hostas and some colorful annuals - petunias, celosia and coleus.
I still have a space to the rear (in the center) which I would like to fill in with something really eye-catching that will bring color in the spring and summer, and not die in the winter... I was thinking a Hydrangea, but I don't think it will do well in the full sun - and the winter frost may finish it off...
Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated. And if I am on the wrong track with my mix of plants - please let me know while I still have the pots and the receipt! :-) Thanks all...New to Gardening and really need advice on flower bed design..?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. There are many evergreen shrubs you could incorporate along the back of your garden. Here are a few suggestions:
Chinese Pizazz or Loropetalum - evergreen shrub with green and purple leaves year around. Pinkish flowers appear in spring and summer.
Lemon Thread or Mop Cypress - evergreen variegated yellow and green leaves year around. Great compliment to the Emerald Green and Euonymus.
If you have some shade, consider some Camellias or Pieris Japonica. One goal you may have is to try and get color year around, with different plants blooming at different times.
I will link you to the gallery of plants section of my website as well as the variety of more plants. There are many photos, descriptions and zones that may give you some ideas for the back of you garden. If you need more suggestions, feel free to contact me and I would be happy to help you. Good luck and have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c鈥?/a>
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c鈥?/a>New to Gardening and really need advice on flower bed design..?
A Nandina bush might be just the thing. It has pretty white flowers in spring/summer and bright red berries in the fall/winter. The leaves are soft, not sharp like Holly, and the bush can be trimmed and prunned if needed or left alone. Landscapers use it quite a bit in flower beds around the house. Check it out at your local nursery.
You might have found a variety of Hosta that will tolerate full sun, but they're rare. Hostas are shade loving plants.
You are in a warmer zone than me, so have more options. For your remaining space, how about a mixture of daylilies. They are tall enough and very pretty, with lots of colors to choose from. You might be able to get selections that bloom successively in slightly different times, to extend the flowering season. The leaves are quite attractive when blooming is over. Another option is roses. I have a patio rose tree that blooms nonstop all summer. Or the standard bush type. It is a bit tricky for me to overwinter, but you should be OK.
So far I have two Emerald Isle Leyland Cypress (small spirals)and two Golden Euonymus to the rear of the bed. In front I have Hostas and some colorful annuals - petunias, celosia and coleus.
I still have a space to the rear (in the center) which I would like to fill in with something really eye-catching that will bring color in the spring and summer, and not die in the winter... I was thinking a Hydrangea, but I don't think it will do well in the full sun - and the winter frost may finish it off...
Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated. And if I am on the wrong track with my mix of plants - please let me know while I still have the pots and the receipt! :-) Thanks all...New to Gardening and really need advice on flower bed design..?
Hi:
I am a landscaper and designer. There are many evergreen shrubs you could incorporate along the back of your garden. Here are a few suggestions:
Chinese Pizazz or Loropetalum - evergreen shrub with green and purple leaves year around. Pinkish flowers appear in spring and summer.
Lemon Thread or Mop Cypress - evergreen variegated yellow and green leaves year around. Great compliment to the Emerald Green and Euonymus.
If you have some shade, consider some Camellias or Pieris Japonica. One goal you may have is to try and get color year around, with different plants blooming at different times.
I will link you to the gallery of plants section of my website as well as the variety of more plants. There are many photos, descriptions and zones that may give you some ideas for the back of you garden. If you need more suggestions, feel free to contact me and I would be happy to help you. Good luck and have a great day!
Kimberly
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c鈥?/a>
http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c鈥?/a>New to Gardening and really need advice on flower bed design..?
A Nandina bush might be just the thing. It has pretty white flowers in spring/summer and bright red berries in the fall/winter. The leaves are soft, not sharp like Holly, and the bush can be trimmed and prunned if needed or left alone. Landscapers use it quite a bit in flower beds around the house. Check it out at your local nursery.
You might have found a variety of Hosta that will tolerate full sun, but they're rare. Hostas are shade loving plants.
You are in a warmer zone than me, so have more options. For your remaining space, how about a mixture of daylilies. They are tall enough and very pretty, with lots of colors to choose from. You might be able to get selections that bloom successively in slightly different times, to extend the flowering season. The leaves are quite attractive when blooming is over. Another option is roses. I have a patio rose tree that blooms nonstop all summer. Or the standard bush type. It is a bit tricky for me to overwinter, but you should be OK.
New dog chases the cats, any advice?
I've three cats, and two established dogs-- in March my Norwegian Elkhound passed away suddenly and after a few months considering we rescued a two year old shelter dog.
( http://www.petfinder.com/petnote/display鈥?/a> ) He's a really great boy, gets along with the kids great and is receptive to new people. Adores the two dogs, but he has a high prey drive and thinks that chasing the cats is the funniest thing in the world.
He's really quite clever, and over the past week we've got him learning basic commands (which he knew none of previously), waiting and sitting at the door before going outside-- instead of pulling us forward, et cetera. He's very quick to teach, but.. the cats!
Any advice you have would be great; for now I've kept them mostly separated-- but that's not going to be a good policy for long.New dog chases the cats, any advice?
you should have thought about that before getting the dog. just let them have their fun! as long as he doesnt hurt the cats!New dog chases the cats, any advice?
I know when We had cats My dog was just a puppy. My dog got a little to close once and the cat showed him what he thought about it. When my cat got after him he respected the cats and wasn't even thinking about chasing or getting to close again. So my advice would be to wait until the cat has had enough they will let the dog know, at least my cat did.
Just a personal experience. might not work out that way for you..hope it does!
i think tht the more time the dog and cats are together they will get used to b with each other and stop chasing them wellll thats what happened with my dog and alllll my cats
Keep the dog away from the cats.
use a squirt bottle and squirt him. worked with my dog and it only took a day of getting wet. my cat is thankful!
( http://www.petfinder.com/petnote/display鈥?/a> ) He's a really great boy, gets along with the kids great and is receptive to new people. Adores the two dogs, but he has a high prey drive and thinks that chasing the cats is the funniest thing in the world.
He's really quite clever, and over the past week we've got him learning basic commands (which he knew none of previously), waiting and sitting at the door before going outside-- instead of pulling us forward, et cetera. He's very quick to teach, but.. the cats!
Any advice you have would be great; for now I've kept them mostly separated-- but that's not going to be a good policy for long.New dog chases the cats, any advice?
you should have thought about that before getting the dog. just let them have their fun! as long as he doesnt hurt the cats!New dog chases the cats, any advice?
I know when We had cats My dog was just a puppy. My dog got a little to close once and the cat showed him what he thought about it. When my cat got after him he respected the cats and wasn't even thinking about chasing or getting to close again. So my advice would be to wait until the cat has had enough they will let the dog know, at least my cat did.
Just a personal experience. might not work out that way for you..hope it does!
i think tht the more time the dog and cats are together they will get used to b with each other and stop chasing them wellll thats what happened with my dog and alllll my cats
Keep the dog away from the cats.
use a squirt bottle and squirt him. worked with my dog and it only took a day of getting wet. my cat is thankful!
New kitten, can someone offer some advice?
Just got a new kitten today (female) 10wks VERY small. The place we got her was a dump. dogs everywhere, trashy house. We think she might have been underfed. she ate and drank so much when we got her home. She seems very scared/on edge. We have another kitten whom is very playful/aggressive ( male 5 moths). we're about to make a trip to MI. would it be good to introduce them outside of the home environment so our eldest cat isnt so territorial? the female went crazy when she saw herself in the mirror. Hissed and clawed. What would be best to make them get along? We tried kinda slow with another kitten we got, but our eldest cat bullied her so much she hated her life, so we were forced to give her up. now were trying again. any advice?New kitten, can someone offer some advice?
It is kind of one of those things you have to see what happens. Ive had many cats through out life. Older cats are always upset when you bring a new one into THEIR house. (thats the way they see it, of course)
I have had older cats eventually get used to it, ones that never get used to it but are totally fine, and I once had one get so sick of it that she ran away :(
I don't really think there is much you can do but wait and see.
Good Luck!New kitten, can someone offer some advice?
Put them together, while wearing rubber gloves. Give them each a distracting treat. Get another person and play with them, pet them, and love them seperately, but near eachother. They will have a breakthrough eventually. GOOD LUCK!!!
They need to be introduced in a home enviroment, as they need to know that this is home, and it must be shared.
In whatever environment you choose to introduce them, here is what I would suggest:
Put the older cat in a cat carrier or in a bathroom with the door closed. Let the new cat loose and let it get used to the environment. Let her explore for a half hour to an hour while the older cat is still in the carrier/room. Be sure the new cat knows that the older cat is where he is. The carrier might be better because then they can see and smell each other more easily.
This is good because the older cat won't be able to become territorial or bully the new cat until she has already had the chance to explore for herself. This also gets the cats used to each other as well as the new environment. If they hiss at each other a lot, keep them in seperate rooms or parts of the house for awhile, and make sure the new kitten has a safe place she can go to to get away from the older cat if need be!
Good luck!
Its normal for cats to literally hate each other the first time they meet. It can take weeks, even months before the dynamics settle down and order is restored. Maybe a visit to the vet for your little one will make sure that she is healthy and didn't pick up something nasty from the trashy house. As for introducing them in a neutral place, that could be a good idea. They always say when introducing new cats, is to give them a space that the other cat hasn't really occupied so they don't try and get territorial. Could work. Also, have both of them been snipped? This can lessen the territorial feelings in the male and also not have the new kitty so crazy about seeing another cat! You also need to punish you cat if he bullies her so much and vice versa. Let neither get away with anything and you should get a healthy relationship out of it.
Introducing the cats outside of home is only away of avoiding the inevitable clash that will occur between them at home. Your female kitty got scared and act aggressive towards her reflection because she thought it was another cat looking back at her. This shows that she is clearly very nervous in her current situation. In the beginning at home, you should definitely separate both cats, one living in one room and the other in another. After maybe a week, feed both of them on opposite sides of a door so that they can associate the pleasantness of eating and attention with the scent of the other cat. After a week of that, try feeding them in the same room but at opposite ends. Eventually the goal is that they can be together even when not being fed. If at anytime the larger cat intimidates the younger, slow the process. Allowing the larger cat to bully the younger will only make it more timid and unlikely to form friendly bonds with you and your home.
It is kind of one of those things you have to see what happens. Ive had many cats through out life. Older cats are always upset when you bring a new one into THEIR house. (thats the way they see it, of course)
I have had older cats eventually get used to it, ones that never get used to it but are totally fine, and I once had one get so sick of it that she ran away :(
I don't really think there is much you can do but wait and see.
Good Luck!New kitten, can someone offer some advice?
Put them together, while wearing rubber gloves. Give them each a distracting treat. Get another person and play with them, pet them, and love them seperately, but near eachother. They will have a breakthrough eventually. GOOD LUCK!!!
They need to be introduced in a home enviroment, as they need to know that this is home, and it must be shared.
In whatever environment you choose to introduce them, here is what I would suggest:
Put the older cat in a cat carrier or in a bathroom with the door closed. Let the new cat loose and let it get used to the environment. Let her explore for a half hour to an hour while the older cat is still in the carrier/room. Be sure the new cat knows that the older cat is where he is. The carrier might be better because then they can see and smell each other more easily.
This is good because the older cat won't be able to become territorial or bully the new cat until she has already had the chance to explore for herself. This also gets the cats used to each other as well as the new environment. If they hiss at each other a lot, keep them in seperate rooms or parts of the house for awhile, and make sure the new kitten has a safe place she can go to to get away from the older cat if need be!
Good luck!
Its normal for cats to literally hate each other the first time they meet. It can take weeks, even months before the dynamics settle down and order is restored. Maybe a visit to the vet for your little one will make sure that she is healthy and didn't pick up something nasty from the trashy house. As for introducing them in a neutral place, that could be a good idea. They always say when introducing new cats, is to give them a space that the other cat hasn't really occupied so they don't try and get territorial. Could work. Also, have both of them been snipped? This can lessen the territorial feelings in the male and also not have the new kitty so crazy about seeing another cat! You also need to punish you cat if he bullies her so much and vice versa. Let neither get away with anything and you should get a healthy relationship out of it.
Introducing the cats outside of home is only away of avoiding the inevitable clash that will occur between them at home. Your female kitty got scared and act aggressive towards her reflection because she thought it was another cat looking back at her. This shows that she is clearly very nervous in her current situation. In the beginning at home, you should definitely separate both cats, one living in one room and the other in another. After maybe a week, feed both of them on opposite sides of a door so that they can associate the pleasantness of eating and attention with the scent of the other cat. After a week of that, try feeding them in the same room but at opposite ends. Eventually the goal is that they can be together even when not being fed. If at anytime the larger cat intimidates the younger, slow the process. Allowing the larger cat to bully the younger will only make it more timid and unlikely to form friendly bonds with you and your home.
New college student lost please offer advice~!?
I am torn between becoming a sports broadcaster or becoming a pre-school teacher. I have many years of expeirence in a pre-school setting creating lesson plans and teaching them ever since I was around 12 or so and I managed the boys baseball team all of high school broadcasting 23 games over the internet. I am very passionet about children and baseball. I enjoy both. Should I go to school to get a degree in broadcast journalism/Radio/Sports Annoucing or to become a pre-school teacher? Please help I am so lost and school starts next week. thanksNew college student lost please offer advice~!?
Become a pre-school teacher as there is a demand for professionals in this field. There are virtually no opportunities for sports broadcasters which offer more than token pay. Good luck!
Become a pre-school teacher as there is a demand for professionals in this field. There are virtually no opportunities for sports broadcasters which offer more than token pay. Good luck!
New mom, need some reassuring advice.?
I have a 2 month old baby boy, our first child. I have had him sleeping in the bassinet portion of his pack-n-play, I know its about time for the crib now because he is growing so much. He sleeps fine in his crib, I have been putting him there for naps and what not, but I freak out at the thought of him not being right beside me at night? Is this horrible, all the talk about SIDS and everything has my nerves going crazy. My husband says it will be ok and it will be more comfortable for him in his crib. When did you put your baby in their own crib away from your bed? Please help....Also did you keep a night light on so you could see them in the crib all night or did you leave it dark?New mom, need some reassuring advice.?
Why can't he sleep in your bed if he's too big for the bassinet? Or why can't the crib be right beside your bed?
';Human children are designed to be sleeping with their parents. The sense of touch is the most important sense to primates, along with sight. Young primates are carried on their mother's body and sleep with her for years after birth, often until well after weaning. The expected pattern is for mother and child to sleep together, and for child to be able to nurse whenever they want during the night. Normal, healthy, breastfed and co-sleeping children do not sleep ';through the night'; (say 7-9 hours at a stretch) until they are 3-4 years old, and no longer need night nursing. I repeat -- this is NORMAL and HEALTHY. Dr. James McKenna's research on co-sleeping clearly shows the dangers of solitary sleeping in young infants, who slip into abnormal patterns of very deep sleep from which it is very difficult for them to rouse themselves when they experience an episode of apnea (stop breathing). When co-sleeping, the mother is monitoring the baby's sleep and breathing patterns, even though she herself is asleep. When the baby has an episode of apnea, she rouses the baby by her movements and touch. This is thought to be the primary mechanism by which co-sleeping protects children from Sudden Infant Death Syndrome. In other words, many cases of SIDS in solitary sleeping children are thought to be due to them having learned to sleep for long stretches at a time at a very early age, so they find themselves in these deep troughs of sleep, then they may experience an episode of apnea, and no one is there to notice or rouse them from it, so they just never start breathing again. Co-sleeping also allows a mother to monitor the baby's temperature during the night, to be there if they spit up and start to choke, and just to provide the normal, safe environment that the baby/child has been designed to expect.';
http://kathydettwyler.org/detsleepthroug鈥?/a>
New mom, need some reassuring advice.?
O it is so hard, I know. I am a mommy to a ten week old baby boy and he just started sleeping in his crib a week ago. I, as well, had him in the bassinett portion of the pack n play. He loces his crib so much more. He has no problems sleeping through the night and what not. Sure every mother worries about SIDS. I think if we didn't there would be something to worry about. It will be ok, I promise. Just make sure that everything that is needed to be in the crib is there and things that are not needed keep them out. The only thing besides a blanket in my sons crib is his teddy bear. His teddy bear stays on the opposite side of the crib where his feet are and he cannot reach it. The only reason it is in there is because he loves to stare at it before he goes to bed. Put a bumper on the crib and if you want to lay your baby on his/her side get a baby positioner. They are relatively cheep and your baby will not roll over and accidentally suffocate. Everything will be fine. Here is a link for a baby positioner so you know what I am talking about! Good Luck.
http://www.target.com/Boppy-Sleep-Positi鈥?/a>
I went through EXACTLY the same thing. It's scary! I bought an Angel Care Bebe Sounds Monitor. You can buy them on WalMart.com. That was the cheapest place I found for them. It comes with a motion sensor that you put under the crib mattress. It will blast an alarm if it senses no movement for 30 seconds (breaths are movements, it's really sensitive), so this monitor really helped me get sleep! I did leave a night light on as well. You, and your baby are gonna be fine. I know it's hard and scary, though! My nurse told me to keep an eye on the paranoia though, because it could be a sign of postpartum depression, so make sure you talk to someone if it gets overwhelming. Good luck, and everyone's going to be fine!
My son was always in his crib BUT I did have a nightlight in the room and the baby monitor was right next to the crib at his head so I could hear every little sound.. just make sure the crib is clear of things like blankets and stuffies
dnt put him in the bed btwn u! i slp on my own n let him slp near me cos i dnt go into a deep sleep (i literally hear him breathe in my slp), though ur husband dsnt hav the same feeling (in general) and he could roll on him, sry im not accusing him so dnt wry. my son used to slp in the moses basket but it got so hot for him n i finally got his crib.. im tryin to get him used to it n he slps well, i just place the crib next to my bed for now (cos i was constantly wakin up to hear his breathin--i got used to it) -- im paranoid too, hu isnt wrd bout their baby! start putting the crib near u n then when he gets slightly older start moving him further (for ur sake cos it wont make such a difference for him in his slp). my son loves snuggling up, he even puts his arm on me n if i get out of the bed he notices n starts cryin until i snuggle up close! (cute but tiring!)
i use my mobile as a night light when i wna c him so i get him used to slping in the dark. i only use a night light when i change his nappy during the night so i dnt put the main light on just in case it wakes him up completely.
gud luck n dnt wry, there's no rule that states u cant put ur crib near ur bed.. do watevr makes u feel comfortable! x
o ye, my son slps on his side n i let him slp however he wnts to.. imagine some giant coming during the night n turning you over..
Re: '; I freak out at the thought of him not being right beside me at night?';
So _keep_ him right beside you at night. Quite simple, it seems.
What is *confusing* is all this business about monitors that beep and whirl and count breaths, farts and whatnot. Why the hell would a ';mother'; want to sleep with said gadgetry instead of a warm, delicious baby?
Do any of you allow your husbands in bed, or are their snorts, burps and turns monitored from another room as well?
You are worrying as all mothers do - everyone goes through this! I think I moved my two into their own cots at about 2 months and they were both fine. I had a baby alarm next to them and the other bit next to me and everything was fine.
Just move your baby if you want to or don't if you don't. It's up to you!
I think what you are feeling is completely normal! I went through the same exact thing with my daughter who is now about 10 months. She slept in our bed on occasion when she was a newborn and in a bassinet next to our bed for months. When she outgrew that she slept in a pack and play in our room. With her getting up so often to eat or with teething issues, it was pointless to put her in the other room. She now comfortably sleeps in her own room and I think we are both ok with that. I say that do what you are comfortable with because you are the mommy. When it is time for a change you will know.
I live in Australia so the standards of sleeping and SID prevention is different. My little girl is 9 weeks and sleeps in her bassinet wrapped up in a cotton blanket with a blanket over the top with her feet right at the end of the bassinet (this will be the same when she moves up to her cot, feet right at the end) Maybe google SIDS prevention and it will give you tips... all the information helps! I keep a night light on as its easier so i dont trip at night. I NEVER put my daughter to sleep on her side or back unless im watching her the WHOLE time. Hope this helpsorigins
Why can't he sleep in your bed if he's too big for the bassinet? Or why can't the crib be right beside your bed?
';Human children are designed to be sleeping with their parents. The sense of touch is the most important sense to primates, along with sight. Young primates are carried on their mother's body and sleep with her for years after birth, often until well after weaning. The expected pattern is for mother and child to sleep together, and for child to be able to nurse whenever they want during the night. Normal, healthy, breastfed and co-sleeping children do not sleep ';through the night'; (say 7-9 hours at a stretch) until they are 3-4 years old, and no longer need night nursing. I repeat -- this is NORMAL and HEALTHY. Dr. James McKenna's research on co-sleeping clearly shows the dangers of solitary sleeping in young infants, who slip into abnormal patterns of very deep sleep from which it is very difficult for them to rouse themselves when they experience an episode of apnea (stop breathing). When co-sleeping, the mother is monitoring the baby's sleep and breathing patterns, even though she herself is asleep. When the baby has an episode of apnea, she rouses the baby by her movements and touch. This is thought to be the primary mechanism by which co-sleeping protects children from Sudden Infant Death Syndrome. In other words, many cases of SIDS in solitary sleeping children are thought to be due to them having learned to sleep for long stretches at a time at a very early age, so they find themselves in these deep troughs of sleep, then they may experience an episode of apnea, and no one is there to notice or rouse them from it, so they just never start breathing again. Co-sleeping also allows a mother to monitor the baby's temperature during the night, to be there if they spit up and start to choke, and just to provide the normal, safe environment that the baby/child has been designed to expect.';
http://kathydettwyler.org/detsleepthroug鈥?/a>
New mom, need some reassuring advice.?
O it is so hard, I know. I am a mommy to a ten week old baby boy and he just started sleeping in his crib a week ago. I, as well, had him in the bassinett portion of the pack n play. He loces his crib so much more. He has no problems sleeping through the night and what not. Sure every mother worries about SIDS. I think if we didn't there would be something to worry about. It will be ok, I promise. Just make sure that everything that is needed to be in the crib is there and things that are not needed keep them out. The only thing besides a blanket in my sons crib is his teddy bear. His teddy bear stays on the opposite side of the crib where his feet are and he cannot reach it. The only reason it is in there is because he loves to stare at it before he goes to bed. Put a bumper on the crib and if you want to lay your baby on his/her side get a baby positioner. They are relatively cheep and your baby will not roll over and accidentally suffocate. Everything will be fine. Here is a link for a baby positioner so you know what I am talking about! Good Luck.
http://www.target.com/Boppy-Sleep-Positi鈥?/a>
I went through EXACTLY the same thing. It's scary! I bought an Angel Care Bebe Sounds Monitor. You can buy them on WalMart.com. That was the cheapest place I found for them. It comes with a motion sensor that you put under the crib mattress. It will blast an alarm if it senses no movement for 30 seconds (breaths are movements, it's really sensitive), so this monitor really helped me get sleep! I did leave a night light on as well. You, and your baby are gonna be fine. I know it's hard and scary, though! My nurse told me to keep an eye on the paranoia though, because it could be a sign of postpartum depression, so make sure you talk to someone if it gets overwhelming. Good luck, and everyone's going to be fine!
My son was always in his crib BUT I did have a nightlight in the room and the baby monitor was right next to the crib at his head so I could hear every little sound.. just make sure the crib is clear of things like blankets and stuffies
dnt put him in the bed btwn u! i slp on my own n let him slp near me cos i dnt go into a deep sleep (i literally hear him breathe in my slp), though ur husband dsnt hav the same feeling (in general) and he could roll on him, sry im not accusing him so dnt wry. my son used to slp in the moses basket but it got so hot for him n i finally got his crib.. im tryin to get him used to it n he slps well, i just place the crib next to my bed for now (cos i was constantly wakin up to hear his breathin--i got used to it) -- im paranoid too, hu isnt wrd bout their baby! start putting the crib near u n then when he gets slightly older start moving him further (for ur sake cos it wont make such a difference for him in his slp). my son loves snuggling up, he even puts his arm on me n if i get out of the bed he notices n starts cryin until i snuggle up close! (cute but tiring!)
i use my mobile as a night light when i wna c him so i get him used to slping in the dark. i only use a night light when i change his nappy during the night so i dnt put the main light on just in case it wakes him up completely.
gud luck n dnt wry, there's no rule that states u cant put ur crib near ur bed.. do watevr makes u feel comfortable! x
o ye, my son slps on his side n i let him slp however he wnts to.. imagine some giant coming during the night n turning you over..
Re: '; I freak out at the thought of him not being right beside me at night?';
So _keep_ him right beside you at night. Quite simple, it seems.
What is *confusing* is all this business about monitors that beep and whirl and count breaths, farts and whatnot. Why the hell would a ';mother'; want to sleep with said gadgetry instead of a warm, delicious baby?
Do any of you allow your husbands in bed, or are their snorts, burps and turns monitored from another room as well?
You are worrying as all mothers do - everyone goes through this! I think I moved my two into their own cots at about 2 months and they were both fine. I had a baby alarm next to them and the other bit next to me and everything was fine.
Just move your baby if you want to or don't if you don't. It's up to you!
I think what you are feeling is completely normal! I went through the same exact thing with my daughter who is now about 10 months. She slept in our bed on occasion when she was a newborn and in a bassinet next to our bed for months. When she outgrew that she slept in a pack and play in our room. With her getting up so often to eat or with teething issues, it was pointless to put her in the other room. She now comfortably sleeps in her own room and I think we are both ok with that. I say that do what you are comfortable with because you are the mommy. When it is time for a change you will know.
I live in Australia so the standards of sleeping and SID prevention is different. My little girl is 9 weeks and sleeps in her bassinet wrapped up in a cotton blanket with a blanket over the top with her feet right at the end of the bassinet (this will be the same when she moves up to her cot, feet right at the end) Maybe google SIDS prevention and it will give you tips... all the information helps! I keep a night light on as its easier so i dont trip at night. I NEVER put my daughter to sleep on her side or back unless im watching her the WHOLE time. Hope this helps
Start new job Monday - meeting new people isn't my strong suit - guess that's why I work in IT ... any advice?
... and I'm not going to picture everyone in the office being naked - but thanks anyway ;)Start new job Monday - meeting new people isn't my strong suit - guess that's why I work in IT ... any advice?
Smile but don't be goofy.
Be confident but not arrogant.
Clean: fresh breath (brush, floss and rinse), clean clothes and body.
Don't wear cologne or scented aftershave (many people are allergic or get instant migraines from perfumes)
Appreciate the knowledge of your new co-workers and ask questions. Don't be a know it all.
Bring bagels and cream cheese, lol.Start new job Monday - meeting new people isn't my strong suit - guess that's why I work in IT ... any advice?
Most workplaces have at least one or two decent souls who like to take the time to help the new guy settle in.I'm guessing you wont have to try too hard,just be relaxed and be yourself.Concentrate on being enthusiastic about the actual work you'll be doing.Hope it all goes well for you.Nothing beats a smile to break the ice by the way.
When you're next to someone, just start talking about them...people love to talk about themselves.
This way, you don't have to come up with alot to talk about....just ask a couple questions.
also, you'll probably make friends faster because, like I said, people love to talk about themselves, and if you let them, they'll feel comfortable around you.
Good luck!
Smile but don't be goofy.
Be confident but not arrogant.
Clean: fresh breath (brush, floss and rinse), clean clothes and body.
Don't wear cologne or scented aftershave (many people are allergic or get instant migraines from perfumes)
Appreciate the knowledge of your new co-workers and ask questions. Don't be a know it all.
Bring bagels and cream cheese, lol.Start new job Monday - meeting new people isn't my strong suit - guess that's why I work in IT ... any advice?
Most workplaces have at least one or two decent souls who like to take the time to help the new guy settle in.I'm guessing you wont have to try too hard,just be relaxed and be yourself.Concentrate on being enthusiastic about the actual work you'll be doing.Hope it all goes well for you.Nothing beats a smile to break the ice by the way.
When you're next to someone, just start talking about them...people love to talk about themselves.
This way, you don't have to come up with alot to talk about....just ask a couple questions.
also, you'll probably make friends faster because, like I said, people love to talk about themselves, and if you let them, they'll feel comfortable around you.
Good luck!
I'll meet new girlfriend tomw.i want advice plz?
be polite and a gentleman and dont act fake.
just relax and have a good time if its meant to be then your in
just relax and have a good time if its meant to be then your in
Serious Dilemma with new GF!!! plz read...need advice?
ok, I asked her out 3 weeks ago and she said yes. Everything was fine till her ex BF found out (she went out with him for a yr till he cheated on her) and all of a sudden he starts telling her how he wants her back. So, a week or so ago she told me that she still has feelings for him, but she likes me too and she honestly is SOO confused. I told her its her decision, not mine because i want to be with her and she knows that. My cuz has been in the same situation as my GF and told me that in her case she broke up with her new BF and they just stayed friends. Until she was ready and realised that she didnt want her ex anymore and just wanted to be with her new BF. I dont know whats going to happen...any advice or experiences? I just want a long and stable relationship wit her and im hoping she decides that shes willing to commit. In her words ';like i dont even know what im goin through rite now,i cant make it out exactly,i duno wtf im feeling';..';i dunno wtf i want';..sigh.what a situationSerious Dilemma with new GF!!! plz read...need advice?
The fact that she is thinking of going back to her ex after he cheated shows that she is more concerned that if she goes back to him, she will look like the fool. Sounds like she really wants to be with the exSerious Dilemma with new GF!!! plz read...need advice?
i think that you should give her a little time but not to much or she will think that she can take advantage of you and so on. Make her feel appreciated and let her know that she knows how you feel and if she don't know let her know.
I went through the same situation once before and i realized that my ex cheated on me so apparently it wasn't meant to be because if he did it once he would do it again so i told him no i don't have time for games and i believe that my new boyfriend will be faithful if he is trying to hard and that i couldn't take it so no and stuck with my boyfriend for a while (lol). So let her know and if she is that type of person who understands she will understand
Tell that she has a decision to make, don't let what she's going through hang you up, you deserve to know
Honesty is always the answer. Tell her how you feel. Let her know you will support her with the decision she makes and every decision she makes. Let her know you will be there for her, always. But only if thats what you really want man. Don't make promises you can't keep.
You are SO going to hate my answer. Sorry.
This chick is still hung up on her ex. You were the rebound guy. The next time they have a fight, she will call you and this game will continue for months if not years.
This one is not meant for you. Go ahead a grieve your loss then move on. Don't take her calls. And DON'T go out with her again. She basically told you that you were a runner up. You deserve first place. Go get it.
thats a tough one but i think u will lose this one, sorry buddy
YO,U MIGHT HAVE TO SIT THROUGH THE STORM..BUT I HOPE YOU WIN
You can only say liste, i really like you but if your going to chose your ex boyfriend thats it, i wont be your second choice if he hurts you again. Its your decision ill give you your time and space.
once a cheater, always a cheater.
however, if she still has feelings for him, she needs to get over those before she can get serious w/ you. make her know you care, but don't pressure her into a relationship. just hang out as friends at parties %26amp; things, until this blows over.
Back off. Let her get her feelings straightened out. Let her come to you. In the mena time, go out and have fun.
If she is still having feelings for her ex, there isn't anything you can do to change that. I agree with your cousin, be her friend, NOT HER DOORMAT! You guys haven't been together long enough to make huge sacrafices for each other yet. Although you want to be in a stable relationship with her, she's not in a place in her life where that is possible yet. There shouldn't be any questions or confusion...it just should be! Don't let yourself be hurt over another persons personal problems or issues. And while being her friend, keep your options open. The moment you stop looking for someone to be with-you find them!
more on. there's too many girls out there. you don't want to be waiting for anything in life. Carpe Diem. If you she's doesn't know if she wants you or him, then apparently her feelings for you isn't that intense.
You either lose by losing her, or you lose by getting her divided attention.
take a step back and just be her friend for now, let her work out her emotions so you can avoid the drama of her constantly changing her mind.
If she chooses the other guy, it wasn't meant to be but you got a new friend and plenty of other girls to choose from.
It seems like her ex only wants her because you have her and once she goes back to him they'll be broken up in no time so if you don't expect her to come back she most likely will. I know you said its her decision but maybe try to tell her that her ex is jealous. It sure seems like he is. There's really not much you can do though it is her decision and just hope that you and her can get through this and hopefully end as friends, bf and gf or just bffs. Good luck
Be careful... If someone has a history with someone, that person knows she could get back with her ex at any time. I have a recent ex girlfriend of 3 years and we could get back together at any time soon if we wanted but we both 'involved' with other people so that becomes an issue.
I think you should more or less give up with this girl, its going to be hard but you'll be okay and in future you'll look back and realise that it was not even worth worrying and you'll have some wisdom which means you'll learn to see the signs in the future and not get involved with someone too quickly!!!
Good luck!
She went out for a year with the guy right? that thing is not easy to get over. But look if you want a long and lasting relationship i suggest that you look for another girl... You guys are just starting and look where it has brought you? You're already confused and you don't know what you feel. what will happen next? oh well,,, let me just say take it easy.. don't easily fall for a person. get to know them.. because in the end you will be the one who will suffer the most.
her ex was sabotaging her.. and she somehow felt for him.. let her make a descion..
The fact that she is thinking of going back to her ex after he cheated shows that she is more concerned that if she goes back to him, she will look like the fool. Sounds like she really wants to be with the exSerious Dilemma with new GF!!! plz read...need advice?
i think that you should give her a little time but not to much or she will think that she can take advantage of you and so on. Make her feel appreciated and let her know that she knows how you feel and if she don't know let her know.
I went through the same situation once before and i realized that my ex cheated on me so apparently it wasn't meant to be because if he did it once he would do it again so i told him no i don't have time for games and i believe that my new boyfriend will be faithful if he is trying to hard and that i couldn't take it so no and stuck with my boyfriend for a while (lol). So let her know and if she is that type of person who understands she will understand
Tell that she has a decision to make, don't let what she's going through hang you up, you deserve to know
Honesty is always the answer. Tell her how you feel. Let her know you will support her with the decision she makes and every decision she makes. Let her know you will be there for her, always. But only if thats what you really want man. Don't make promises you can't keep.
You are SO going to hate my answer. Sorry.
This chick is still hung up on her ex. You were the rebound guy. The next time they have a fight, she will call you and this game will continue for months if not years.
This one is not meant for you. Go ahead a grieve your loss then move on. Don't take her calls. And DON'T go out with her again. She basically told you that you were a runner up. You deserve first place. Go get it.
thats a tough one but i think u will lose this one, sorry buddy
YO,U MIGHT HAVE TO SIT THROUGH THE STORM..BUT I HOPE YOU WIN
You can only say liste, i really like you but if your going to chose your ex boyfriend thats it, i wont be your second choice if he hurts you again. Its your decision ill give you your time and space.
once a cheater, always a cheater.
however, if she still has feelings for him, she needs to get over those before she can get serious w/ you. make her know you care, but don't pressure her into a relationship. just hang out as friends at parties %26amp; things, until this blows over.
Back off. Let her get her feelings straightened out. Let her come to you. In the mena time, go out and have fun.
If she is still having feelings for her ex, there isn't anything you can do to change that. I agree with your cousin, be her friend, NOT HER DOORMAT! You guys haven't been together long enough to make huge sacrafices for each other yet. Although you want to be in a stable relationship with her, she's not in a place in her life where that is possible yet. There shouldn't be any questions or confusion...it just should be! Don't let yourself be hurt over another persons personal problems or issues. And while being her friend, keep your options open. The moment you stop looking for someone to be with-you find them!
more on. there's too many girls out there. you don't want to be waiting for anything in life. Carpe Diem. If you she's doesn't know if she wants you or him, then apparently her feelings for you isn't that intense.
You either lose by losing her, or you lose by getting her divided attention.
take a step back and just be her friend for now, let her work out her emotions so you can avoid the drama of her constantly changing her mind.
If she chooses the other guy, it wasn't meant to be but you got a new friend and plenty of other girls to choose from.
It seems like her ex only wants her because you have her and once she goes back to him they'll be broken up in no time so if you don't expect her to come back she most likely will. I know you said its her decision but maybe try to tell her that her ex is jealous. It sure seems like he is. There's really not much you can do though it is her decision and just hope that you and her can get through this and hopefully end as friends, bf and gf or just bffs. Good luck
Be careful... If someone has a history with someone, that person knows she could get back with her ex at any time. I have a recent ex girlfriend of 3 years and we could get back together at any time soon if we wanted but we both 'involved' with other people so that becomes an issue.
I think you should more or less give up with this girl, its going to be hard but you'll be okay and in future you'll look back and realise that it was not even worth worrying and you'll have some wisdom which means you'll learn to see the signs in the future and not get involved with someone too quickly!!!
Good luck!
She went out for a year with the guy right? that thing is not easy to get over. But look if you want a long and lasting relationship i suggest that you look for another girl... You guys are just starting and look where it has brought you? You're already confused and you don't know what you feel. what will happen next? oh well,,, let me just say take it easy.. don't easily fall for a person. get to know them.. because in the end you will be the one who will suffer the most.
her ex was sabotaging her.. and she somehow felt for him.. let her make a descion..
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