New owner of rabbit seeks advice?

i just recently got a rabbit. hes a one year old mixed bunny. he is not for show, just for a pet. i was just looking for some advice and caring information for him. hes very sweet so i let him run around the house when im home. he has a litter box that he uses pretty well. i was just looking for additional information about rabbits in general as pets. do they need any vaccinations? or vet visits? do they clean themselves? can he eat any vegetables or do i have to get him a certain kind. also, i let him run around in my garden sometimes and ive noticed that he really likes eating flowers. is this ok? any other information is appreciated. thank you.New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
Looking after a pet rabbit is a very special responsibility. You need to provide adequate housing, a proper diet, regular grooming and veterinary check-ups, as well as give your rabbit plenty of love and attention.





Following is a look at some of the basic needs your rabbit requires for a happy and healthy life.








OUTDOOR HOUSING





Traditional rabbit hutch designs are usually too small and fail to meet a rabbit's needs - cramped cages restrict movement leading to spinal and behavioural problems, and hard or wire floors lead to foot problems and sore hocks.





An ideal hutch:


鈥? has a run with adequate room for the rabbit to stand up fully on its hind limbs and enough space to allow free movement, at the very least it should be able to take 3 successive hops


鈥? provides a sleeping area with a solid floor and sides to offer shelter, as well as somewhere to hide. The floor needs to be lined with soft, absorbent bedding such as straw, grass hay or unscented wood shavings and cleaned daily. A litter tray for toileting can be provided.


鈥? needs to be built from materials that are easy to clean and chew-proof - the hutch itself should be cleaned and scrubbed weekly


鈥? does not have wire flooring


鈥? should be well ventilated - wire mesh sides provide good light and ventilation, as well as mosquito protection


鈥? provides relief from extremes of temperature, wind and rain. The roof needs to be solid and sloped to protect from the elements and be hinged to allow ease of access for cleaning. Raise the hutch off the ground to protect from damp and place in a sheltered part of the garden with adequate sunlight (morning sun), but protected from wind and high temperatures.


鈥? includes water bottles, feeding bowl, hayrack and chew toys for environmental enrichment e.g. tree branches, wooden parrot toys, cardboard boxes and toilet roll tubes.





Confining a rabbit to a hutch for long periods is unsatisfactory, and actually harmful to the rabbit. These days more rabbits are housed, or at least allowed access to, indoors and are included more in family life.





EXERCISE





All pet rabbits should have daily exercise outside of the hutch - at least 4 hours to free roam. As well as preventing behavioural problems, exercise helps to ensure a healthy gut and prevent obesity and spinal problems.





A rabbit should never be left outside of the cage unsupervised and must be protected from predators and escape. A fenced enclosure with garden shrubbery or logs for shelter can be built around the hutch to provide safe exercise for the rabbit and access to grass, wood and bark. The fence needs to be dug in so the rabbit can't burrow under and be high enough that it can't jump out.





INDOOR HOUSING





Rabbits adapt easily to living inside and are suited to quiet households. Contrary to popular belief, they are better pets for adults than children - they are after all a prey animal and are naturally timid and wary. They do enjoy affection, however, as it helps them feel secure - make a fuss over them at ground level rather than picking them up and handling them excessively.





The house must be adequately 'rabbit-proofed' to protect them from chewing through electrical cords - either prevent access to these by placing behind furniture or cover in a hard plastic sleeving. Remove potentially poisonous plants, protect valuable furniture at ground level or prevent access to certain areas and provide a safe, allowable alternative for their chewing needs, such as chew toys, a piece of untreated, unpainted wood, cardboard boxes and piles of newspapers or old phonebooks to shred.





Provide a secure sleeping area e.g. a basket, tub or box under a table plus a cardboard box or two around the house that the rabbit can sit inside (cut out an entry plus an exit hole).





Many rabbits can be trained successfully to use a litter tray, especially for urinating, but it is not uncommon for them to leave droppings around from time to time - it is best to simply clean these up and not worry about it. Place a few droppings in the tray to try and encourage the rabbit to use the tray the next time - they are attracted to go in the same place by the smell.





COMPANIONSHIP





Rabbits are sociable animals so housing them with other rabbits is encouraged. Neutered rabbits of opposite or same sexes can be housed together. Any attempted introductions should be monitored closely as rabbits can inflict serious wounds on each other.





It is recommended not to house guinea pigs and rabbits together. Sometimes a rabbit and guinea pig can co-habit if they have been together since weaning, but in most cases the guinea pig is in danger of being kicked and injured by the rabbit. Rabbits may also carry infections that can affect guinea pigs.





FEEDING





The most common cause of gastrointestinal disease in rabbits is poor diet. The majority of commercially available rabbit foods are actually inappropriate for pet rabbits - they are too concentrated in carbohydrates and fats and lack appropriate levels of fibre, as well as don't allow for adequate dental wear and gastrointestinal movement.





Rabbits have a gastrointestinal system designed to digest large amounts of fibrous material. Wild rabbits eat grass %26amp; weeds, some flowers and other plant material, occasionally fruit and also chew on bark and branches.





Essentially rabbits should be fed a Hay and Vegetables diet:


鈥? Grass hay (meadow hay) should be available at all times. Grasses of most kinds can be offered (except for grass clippings as they often go mouldy), as well as a variety of garden weeds. Lucerne hay can be given in small amounts but not as the sole source of hay as it is too high in calcium.


鈥? A range of vegetables can be offered, especially leafy green vegetables such as spinach, bock Choy, cauliflower leaves, cabbage and Brussels sprout leaves. Celery, pea pods, herbs, broccoli, spring onions, sprouts, lettuce mixes, radish and carrot tops are also suitable. Carrots can be suspended from the cage to keep them occupied and increase time spent eating. Avoid raw beans, corn, rhubarb, and potato peels. Give about 250g/kg bodyweight per day of at least 3 different varieties.


鈥? Fruits can be offered occasionally as a treat e.g. apples, pears, oranges and strawberries. Give no more than 1-2 tablespoons per rabbit per day.


鈥? Feed limited quantities of pellets (no more than 3% of the rabbit's body weight) and avoid rabbit mixes altogether (selective feeding of items in the mix can lead to dietary deficiencies).


鈥? Twigs and branches from trees are good for rabbits to chew on.


鈥? No salt licks or supplements are required.





Fresh water needs to be provided 24 hours a day in a bowl that can鈥檛 be tipped over. Water bottles can be purchased that hang on the side of the cage. Rabbits are very prone to heat stress (temperatures above 28掳C) - keep them inside or in the shade and provide frozen water bottles to cuddle up to on hot days (rabbits can't sweat).





GROOMING





Apart from enjoying a good brush, grooming your rabbit regularly is important to its health and well being. Long-haired breeds require daily brushing to remove excess dead hair and prevent hairballs developing. Rabbits cannot vomit and hairballs are prone to cause intestinal obstructions. Daily grooming also allows for early detection of problems, and regular handling helps develop your rabbit's confidence and friendliness.





Periodic nail trimming is required to prevent harm to you and your family, as well as to other pets. Rabbits have sharp nails and can easily scratch when they kick out their back feet, often quite forcefully. Use nail trimmers designed for pets and clip the sharp tip of the nail so you aren't in danger of cutting too far down past the 'quick', where the blood vessels and nerves are. It is very difficult to judge where the quick is with black nails. Have your vet show you the proper technique.





VACCINATION AND DESEXING





All pet rabbits should now be vaccinated against rabbit calicivirus (RCD). The disease is almost always fatal and death occurs rapidly, within 12 鈥?18 hours, from respiratory and heart failure. There is no known treatment. Vaccination should be performed by your vet at 10 - 12 weeks of age. Only one dose is required at this time, and then yearly boosters are required for continuing protection.





Up to 80% of female rabbits will develop uterine cancer if not spayed - spaying of all female rabbits is strongly recommended. As well as preventing cancer, it reduces aggression, facilitates housetraining of indoor rabbits and allows rabbits to be housed together harmoniously. Desexing of both male and female rabbits is recommended at around 5-6 months of age.





Just as with pet dogs and cats, a yearly check-up for your rabbit is a good idea to ensure your rabbit has as healthy and happy a life as possible. This can be done at the time of the calicivirus vaccination and your vet can check and file your rabbit's teeth and get the toenails clipped as well.New owner of rabbit seeks advice?
History


Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).


Behaviour


Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour


Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs, along with all types of fresh fruit, vegetables (green stuffs) and all types of roots. Most green stuffs are suitable for rabbits although be careful to avoid feeding potatoes (they have toxic parts) lettuce, chicory, chickweed and dandelions (can cause diarrhoea if fed in excess). Extra vitamins, salt licks are not generally required and mine never get any. I also use leaves from blackberries, raspberries, strawberries and other fruit bushes, along with a lot of wild greens during the summer.





Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.


To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their food as possible, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing.





Housing


Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you cannot therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.





Bedding


Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.





Exercise


Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.


Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).





Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household.





Health


It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your rabbit.





To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.





Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling. Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries. Rabbits nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned. Rabbits moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).





Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly. If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly





My experience


I have bred, exhibited and owned rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12 years.





Showing


The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'. Every weekend, all over the country, rabbit shows are taking place. Many are Local Rabbit Clubs holding their single-day shows in places such as Village Halls and Scout Huts. Others are two-day Championship Shows held in Sports Centres and School Halls.
OK, i could just give you web links or some snatches of information from my own personal experience but I find it more helpful to give you this advice: go to petsmart or petco and buy a rabbit book. that way in case of emergency or quick reference you have your book right there to help you out.
Whew..Well we'll start with the vaccine part. There are a couple that are available at some vets for rabbits. It would be totally up to you if you wanted to check into that, or get vaccines. You would have to search around to find a vet that actually KNOWS about rabbits,,,,and not just cats and dogs. It usually takes a vet that specializes in exotics to know the anatomy and do's and don'ts of rabbits. That being said, I've raised and shown literally hundreds upon hundreds over the last dozen or more years, and I choose not to vaccinate. I've never lost a rabbit to any contracted disease. It would be good though to have a vet lined up, in case of an accident or emergency. They are as fastidious as cats, when it comes to keeping themselves clean. If you see a dirty, or dull haired rabbit, it would be a red flag for a problem. Unless they are ill, they are clean. If their rear end gets filthy,,there is a problem. Like any other animal, of course they can get into something that would dirty them beyond their ability to clean, and you may have to use dry shampoo (no baths unless you have no choice) or brush them to help.The need rabbit feed daily, and can survive, even thrive, on this alone. However, they will be happier and have a better immune system with added treats. They usually know what to eat, and what to avoid by instinct, but it isn't unheard of for one to eat a plant that doesn't agree with them. I would just watch him while he's in the garden, and watch for signs of an upset stomach after he's been out. I think the benifits outweigh the risks in letting him roam the garden.It's very good for him to have that exercise, and be able to 'graze' You can add timothy or bermuda hay to his diet to munch on during the day/night, and even veggies and/or fruits in moderation. Stay away from cabbage and/or lettuce as it has practically no nutritional value, and can cause gas and bloating. Carrots are fine as well as a piece of apple,pear,bell pepper etc. Just don't over do it with any fruit or veggie. Careful not to give apple seeds, as they contain a toxin in the cyanide family that can be dangerous to small animals. That's about it, other than enjoy him :o) they make great pets and are entertaining to watch them play. Oh yeah,,,they are nosy chewers, so watch him well while he's running around the house. They will not hesitate to snatch up a lamp cord etc. and start chewing away.Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions, and hope I helped a bit.
they clean themselves see the vet 1 a year make sure not to fed to much veggies they can get sick they can eat flowers just make sure that none are bad for him like poisonous or something don't worry about your bunny sounds very well loved!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow you have some really great answers, especially from mallissa...





I just want to say in addition that you can find a lot of resources online at www.rabbit.org





which is a great website for bunny owners. Good luck!
well first thing letting him eat plants that's not good most plant are like posing to young rabbits buy a rabbit book to see what plants are ok for him to eat.


Then buy him some little soft toys that he can play with like a ball with bells in it they like toys with bells. Then you can feed him things like carrots,lettuce,strawberries,Broccoli,ap鈥?slices wit so skin on them and make sure dont buy and snacks from the pet stores they have to much sugar in them and you rabbit can get worms and die. leting him run around the house is ok if your home but if leave lock him up or he will jump on your bed and use the bathroom cause they think it's ok to do while your not home.


Hope this helps you.
You have gotten some great advice, just a few extra things. Dark green lettuces such as Romaine is great for them but Iceburg is actually toxic to rabbits therefore should always be avoided. Our rabbits also like parsley ,cilantro, mint, mustard green, turnip greens, LOVE kale, collard greens and I'm not sure anyone mentioned grapes.


Another very important thing to remember to get wood pieces from the local pet store or Wal-mart etc. the ensure their teeth can file down otherwise they can literally grow right into their brain.


Our rabbits also love cardboard boxes and wicker baskets[make sure the wood is untreated] to dig in and chew on. Rabbits are wonderful pets and our whole family has enjoyed watching and playing with the rabbits. Best of luck to you and your new friend!